苏格兰因其如画美景而闻名于世 Scotland is famed around the world for stunning scenery.
出名的还有其善变莫测的天气 And notorious for its somewhat unpredictable weather.
算不上光彩地可以吹嘘道西部高地有265天都在下雨 It's hardly a proud boast that it rains for 265 days a year in the Western Highlands
或者其夏天的温度也只会是平均16度的这个水平 or that the summer temperature only ever reaches an average of 16 degrees.
但这是个充斥着自然力的国度- But this is an elemental country -
其中有风 雨 雪 a place where wind, rain, snow
有时甚至阳光都能够让你大感意外 and sometimes even sunshine can take you by surprise.
本系列中 我将迎着各种天气 重溯当年苏格兰 In this series I'm braving the weather and retracing the routes
早期旅游者们所走的路线 taken by some of the early tourists to Scotland.
早在1820年时 出版商们便开始出版旅游指南书 From as early as 1820 publishers began producing tourist guide books
而布莱克之苏格兰美景指南便是最早期出版之一 and Black's Picturesque Guide to Scotland was one of the first.
这超棒指南的其中一册已在我家留传数代 A copy of this wonderful volume has been in my family for generations.
我们外出度假时就一直放在父亲的车里 It was always kept in my father's car when we went on holiday.
现在我让其书页再度指引着我 Now I'm letting its pages guide me again
进行苏格兰的六次盛大之旅 on my six Grand Tours of Scotland.
一路之上 我还将动用到一些早期旅游者们的 On the road, I'll also be dipping into the notes and jottings
笔记和略记来了解他们的经验 of some early travellers to hear about their experiences.
这次我正前往苏格兰一处最野性的地区 This time I'm on route to one of the wildest parts of Scotland
在那儿你可以发现自然展现其质朴未琢之美 where you can find nature in all its elemental glory,
有时也就意味着一天中呈现出四季 which sometimes means four seasons in one day.
苏格兰盛大之旅 Grand Tours of Scotland
EP2 原始之美 =========记录片之家倾情奉献========= 本字幕仅供学习交流，严禁用于商业用途 翻译:LSCAROLLI 校对:LSCAROLLI
我的第二个盛大之旅将带我穿过西北部高地 The second of my grand tours takes me through the north-west Highlands
跨越苏格兰大陆的最高端 and across very top of mainland Scotland.
我的旅程始于托里登这儿 My journey starts here in Torridon
布莱克的指南称它是因为其未开化的荒芜而闻名 which Black's guide book says is famed for its savage barrenness.
这里不仅是苏格兰最野性的 Not only is this one of the wildest
也是最漂亮的地区 and most beautiful parts of Scotland,
也是一处最偏远的 it's also one of the most remote.
即使在维多利亚时代 And even in Victorian times
马儿和拖车也只是到这么远 a horse and carriage could only take you so far.
随后 就只能靠你胫骨上的"马儿"了 After that, it was a case of a ride on shanks' pony,
靠你自己的11号 on your plates of meat.
换而言之就是靠你自己的双脚 In other words on yer ain two feet.
维多利亚时代人是了不起的步行者 The Victorians were great walkers
绅士们都以他们靠双腿旅行 and gentlemen prided themselves
走了多远多远而为傲 on how far they could travel of foot.
这些步程或他们美其名曰的游历 These walks or peregrinations as they were grandly called
将那些有眼力的旅行者们带离了常规熟路 took the discerning tourist right off the beaten track.
其中一位对自己的步行经历相当自豪的维多利亚绅士 One Victorian gent who was very proud of his pedestrian exertions
便是柯克宾市的托马斯·格里尔森牧师 was the Reverend Thomas Grierson, Minister of Kirkbean.
格里尔森是个可畏的人 Now Grierson was a formidable man
更是位曾仅凭双腿走了极长距离的可畏的步行者 and an even more formidable walker covering enormous distances on foot.
1851年格里尔森为步行旅行者写了本指南 In 1851 Grierson wrote a guide for the pedestrian tourist in which
在书中他欢快地建议其他人切实地 he cheerfully recommends others to follow literally
按他的脚步来游历苏格兰 in his footsteps across Scotland.
"游览高地的最好方式就是自己的双腿 "The best of all steads for the Highlands are a man's own legs.
山区的景色无论从哪方面看 "In no direction can mountain scenery be viewed
都没有步行来得满意" "so satisfactorily as on foot."
所以将格里尔森牧师的建议牢记心上 So taking the Reverend Grierson's advice to heart,
我来到了苏格兰这处偏远地区 I've come to this remote part of Scotland
以探索这个我只听说过还没有来过的地方 in search of a place I've heard about but have never been to.
这里就是我想到的地方 Now this is where I want to get to.
它是湖中的一个小小的岛 It's a tiny wee island in a loch
湖又是在一座由大湖环绕着的岛上 on an island which is itself in a bigger loch.
这个我一直想要参观的地方 It's a kind of Chinese box of a location
就像是一种中国套盒 and a place I've always wanted to visit,
但要去到那儿我就得要歇歇腿而乘只小船了 but to get there I'm going to have to rest my legs and take a boat.
这是马利湖 This is Loch Maree,
常被誉为是整个高地最美的湖 which is often referred to as the most beautiful in the Highlands.
我正前往湖中心的一座岛 I'm heading for an island in the middle of the loch
称为艾林萨伯海恩 called Eilean Subhainn,
但就像大多数来苏格兰的游客所发现的 but as most visitors to Scotland have found,
你得一直留意着天气 you've always got to keep one eye on the weather.
起风了 Well, the wind's picking up
像往常一样 天边有片乌云 and there's a black cloud on the horizon, as usual,
那我需要加快速度了 so I'll need to put some speed on
在天气转坏之前能登上小岛 and make a landing on my island before the weather gets any worse.
我那本布莱克指南的说法... As my Black's Guide Book advises...
"苏格兰的天气极为多变 "The climate of Scotland is extremely variable.
在春天和早夏期间会有 "East and North East winds are felt severely
凛冽的东风和东北风" "during spring and early summer."
指南继续警告旅行者们... And it goes on to warn the traveller of...
"有大雨 尤其在西边" "Heavy rainfall, especially in the west."
这些岛屿真正吸引人就因为在此你会发现 Now, these islands are truly amazing because here you'll find
不列颠境内的一些最未被侵扰的自然环境 some of the least disturbed natural environments anywhere in Britain,
也就使它们如此重要 听哪 which is what makes them so important and just listen.
自然之声 原始之声 The sound of nature. The sound of the elements.
这是野生生物的原始天堂 This is an undisturbed haven for wildlife
马利湖岛受到苏格兰 and the Loch Maree islands are protected
自然遗产协会的保护 已将其列为 by Scottish Natural Heritage, who have designated it
国家自然保护区 a national nature reserve.
这些树木是曾经在远古时期覆盖了高地大部的 The trees here are precious remnants of the once extensive Caledonian pine forest
古苏格兰松林的珍贵遗存 that covered much of the Highlands in ancient times.
果不其然 开始下雨了 Inevitably, of course, that's the rain on.
事实上看起来整天都要断断续续地下了 In fact it looks like it's going to be on and off all day.
但还能指望什么呢? But what do you expect?
这里毕竟是西部高地 This is the West Highlands after all.
但无论怎样都很漂亮 But beautiful nonetheless.
循着树下的鹿蹄印 Following the deer track beneath the trees,
我艰难穿过了原始而未曾改变过的一片地区 I make my way through a landscape that feels ancient and unchanged,
几乎未受过人类干扰 almost untouched by human hand.
现我已抵达湖中的艾林萨伯海恩 Now I've reached the loch and on Eilean Subhainn
那便是我要到达的小岛 and that is my island destination.
但显然要到那儿 我就得做好淋湿或者湿透的准备 But obviously to get there I'm going to risk getting wet or even wetter.
现在的问题是... Now the question is...
...我是脱下靴子呢还是以速度作为一种防范? ..whether I take my boots off or just use speed as a defence?
我想还是用速度吧 出发 I think I'll use speed. Here we go.
啊! 哦! Arhhh! Ooh!
还不那么糟糕 That wasn't so bad.
多迷人的地方 What an amazing place.
在整个英国境内肯定没有像这儿的地方了 There's absolutely nowhere like this in the whole of the UK.
它只是座小小的岛 小小的地面 It's only a wee scrap of island, a wee scrap of land,
但它是湖中的岛 but it's an island in a loch,
在个岛上 on an island
再在个更大的湖上 再在个更大的英国岛上 on a bigger loch on a bigger island of Britain.
太迷人了! It's amazing!
如果有面小旗子 我就把它插在那儿声明是我的地盘 If I had a wee flag I'd plant it right there and claim it for myself.
维多利亚时代跟如今一样 In Victorian times, just as today,
像这样的景色会吸引游客们 it was scenery like this that attracted the tourists.
他们来看原始的高山 瀑布 They came to see the untouched mountains, waterfalls,
湖泊和峡谷 lochs and glens.
他们前来观瞻以获取灵感 They came to gaze and to be inspired.
和旅游者们一起出现的还有艺术家 And with the tourists came the artists,
米莱 特纳 兰西尔 Millais, Turner, Landseer,
一长串的伟人跋涉前往高地 a litany of the greats beating path to the Highlands
以体验大自然的原始之美 to experience the elemental beauty of nature.
他们仍络绎前来 And they still come.
好了 就是它了 Yeah, this is it.
为更多了解艺术和自然 To find out more about art and the elements,
我将和艺术家梅丽· 黑德威克一起来素描 I'm going to be sketching this spectacular mountain, Slioch,
这座壮观的山 斯利奥赫 with artist Mairi Hedderwick.
2001年时梅丽发现了一本维多利亚 In 2001 Mairi discovered a rare copy
艺术家JT·里德著作的一份珍贵印本 of a book by Victorian artist JT Reid
正是他步行游历了高地 手拿素描本 who toured the Highlands on foot, sketch book in hand.
苏格兰高地及岛屿之艺术漫谈 Art Rambles in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland.
是本美妙的书 It's a beautiful book.
看那个 很可爱 Look at that. It's lovely.
这些便是他之所见? And these are his views?
我当时正在翻阅 看到了 I was thumbing through it. Saw the engravings
西部高地和外围岛屿的版画 就想着 of the West Highlands and the outer islands and thought
如果我站在114年前的那个相同位置 if I stand on the exact same place 114 years later,
景色会是一样的吗? will the view be the same?
受JT·里德的启发 Inspired by JT Reid's odyssey,
梅丽开始循着他的足迹 Mairi undertook to follow in his footsteps
将里德画的同样景色进行素描 sketching the very same views that Reid had painted.
我们认为现在我们所站的地方正是 Now we are sitting in what we think is the exact spot
JT·里德画画的地方 where John T Reid drew this picture.
- 他在这儿所作出的确是一幅迷人的画 - 是的 非常棒 -That's a fantastic image that he's created here. -Yeah, very dramatic.
我们看到的是阴郁天气下的斯利奥赫 We've got Slioch on a rather gloomy day.
是的 他做这幅画时是在十月 Yes, well it was October when he was doing that
因为他有本日记 所以我知道他在某处的日子 cos he kept a diary so I knew the dates he was in certain places.
于是你也在相同的时候来 相同的时候 是的 So you came here at the same time. At the same time, yeah.
那时你需要来应付恶劣天气吗? Did you have to struggle against the elements?
那时很冷 正是十月 It was cold. It was October.
天寒地冻 还下了雪 It was freezing and there was snow
就在那座还开着花的山顶上 而第二天 on the top of that blooming mountain and the next day
大雨倾盆而下 it was just stair rods coming down.
那趟行程值得吗? 是的 Was it worth it? Yes.
说起来 梅丽 我相信在维多利亚时代 Now Mairi, I believe in Victorian times
有种流派是说 there was a school of thought that said that
如果你画下自然 if you drew from nature
你便或多或少发现一些真理 you'd somehow discover some fundamental truth.
你开始认真地看 也确实看到了 You begin to really look and really see.
是啊 可问题是为什么 Yeah and question, I mean why,
要知道 景色可是天然形成的 you know, the land is formed the way it is. Uh huh.
人们想让未开化地区的光影和美丽 People wanted the light and the beauty of the wild spaces
提醒他们还有生活的另一个部分 to remind them of this other part of their life
这部分会欣赏艺术 大自然和最质朴的美 which was the appreciation of art and nature and elemental beauty,
那也是一种精神体验 and it was a spiritual experience as well.
嗯 我明白是为何了...对 Uh huh. I can see why... Yep.
..回到大自然中甚至对今天的人来说也很重要 ..getting back into the elements is important for people even today.
我就是爱 爱苏格兰 爱它 I just love, I love Scotland. I love it.
- 它充满魔力 - 它非比寻常 -It's magical. -It's extraordinary.
尽管我认为我还没有全然捕捉到它 Although I don't think I've quite captured it.
哦 你做得很好 Och, you're doing fine.
是的 你把握到了合适的比例 Yes, you've got the proportions right.
是的 还不坏 Yeah, it's not bad.
相当好 手和眼 我的就有些夸张了 Pretty good, hand and eye. Mine's a bit more exaggerated.
看哪看哪 哦 很艺术 耶 Look, look. See. Oh, artistic, yeah.
你赢了一局 耶 You've got a round, yeah.
为寻求更多的启发 我再次出发 Seeking further inspiration, I set off again
如果天气尚可 就一路向北 heading north, weather permitting of course.
走着路欣赏苏格兰可能是最好的方式来体会 Seeing Scotland at walking pace is perhaps the best way to appreciate
天气是如何给景色增添色彩的 how the weather adds to the drama of the landscape,
而时常变化的光线是如何 and how the constantly changing light
得以在你的眼前来变换美景的 can transform the view in front of your eyes.
但苏格兰这变幻莫测的天气 But the unpredictable nature of Scotland's climate
不是人人都喜欢 didn't charm everyone.
美国艺术家伊丽莎白和约瑟夫·彭内尔 American artists Elizabeth and Joseph Pennell,
在1889年来过后清楚表明了他们的感受 visiting in 1889 made their feelings clear.
"我们毫不犹豫地说 我们的苏格兰之旅 "We have no hesitation in saying that our trip to Scotland
是最为悲惨的 "was the most miserable.
天气一直很糟糕是不容置疑的事实" "That the weather is vile is a fact that cannot be denied."
对此所有的高地人都知道回答 To which all Highlanders know the reply.
"哦 如果你们能早来一周的话 就会很美的" "Och if you'd only been here just last week, it was beautiful."
然而一位像格里尔森牧师这样的维多利亚步行者 But a Victorian pedestrian like the Reverend Grierson
会欣喜于步行穿越如此 would have rejoiced in the challenge
变化多端且崎岖不平地区的这个挑战 of walking through such a dramatic and rugged landscape,
无论是多困难的情况 in often difficult conditions.
这本书中 正义的牧师谴责不爱国的苏格兰人 In his book the good Reverend scolds unpatriotic Scots
到国外去度假 for taking their holidays abroad.
他问 我们家门口就有这么多胜景 为什么还去瑞士? Why go to Switzerland, he asks, when we have such splendours on our doorstep?
在哀叹他那个时代年轻人的生活质量前 Before lamenting the quality of the youth of his day.
"我不禁要探索番在如今现代社会中在年青人身上 "I cannot help deploring the habits of indolence and effeminacy
可观察得到的懒散和柔弱的习性 "observable among young gentlemen in these modern times.
他们中廖廖无几可拓展他们的游历体验 "They can scarcely be prevailed upon to extend their ramblings
至丝袜和羽绒床的舒适区域之外" "beyond the regions of silk stockings and feather beds."
我不确定敬爱的牧师脑中的着丝袜游历是什么 I'm not sure what silk stocking ramblings the good Reverend had in mind,
但我怀疑他的意思是这个 but I suspect his point was this.
一个真正的男人应直面各种恶劣条件 A real man should expose himself to the elements
而非耽于奢华享乐 and not to effeminate luxuries.
冒着我自己给贴上个丝袜游历者之险 At the risk of being labelled a silk-stocking rambler myself,
恐怕我得胆小地放弃一路向北的全部行程都用脚走 I'm afraid I'm about to wimp out of making the whole of my trip north on foot.
现在我旅程中到这个时候 Now I've reached that point in my journey
我觉得有必要暂时避开原始的大自然 where I feel the need to take a break from elemental nature,
歇个腿儿 坐辆公车 rest my feet and take a bus.
她真是太漂亮了 过往岁月的一个尤物 And what a beauty she is. A real blast from the past.
我很高兴你停了车 我的脚痛死了 I'm glad you stopped. My feet are killing me.
不客气 No problem.
像这样的公共汽车在50年前的 Buses like these would have been a familiar sight
高速路上很常见 on Highland roads 50 years ago.
开着这一辆的是爱好者默多克·麦克弗森 This one is driven by enthusiast Murdoch MacPherson.
默多克 这公车是什么样的? 是辆很棒的机器 Now Murdoch what kind of bus is this? It's a wonderful machine.
这是贝德福德牌 1957年到1962年左右出产的 This is a Bedford 1957, through to about 1962.
-那么这公车实在是过去的役马了 -哦 当然了 是的 -So this bus is really a work horse from the past. -Oh absolutely, yes.
我猜会有些人当他们踏上这样的一辆公车时 But I imagine that some people when they step aboard a bus like this
他们就像回到了童年 they're taken back to their own childhood.
- 过往记忆涌现 - 这样的事常发生 -To their own memories. -It happens all the time,
光是看到公车就会给人们带回了许多记忆 even seeing the buses brings a lot of memories back to people.
新的一天里我们穿过布雷莫尔的树林 A new day finds us passing through the woods
前往阿勒浦 of Braemore on our way to Ullapool.
当有时刻表的公车于上世纪30年代开始投入运行时 When regular scheduled bus services began to operate in the 1930s,
它们开启了以前难以进入的高地给所有人 they opened up the previously inaccessible Highlands to everyone
也使得更具冒险精神的旅游者们得以 and made it possible for ever more adventurous visitors
享受在荒野的尽兴远足 to enjoy a good hike in the wilderness -
况且还有大片的荒野可供探索 and there was plenty of wilderness to explore.
我记得离开阿勒浦的那个早上 I remember the morning we left Ullapool,
我们的眼中满是牲口 our eyes mounted on stalks.
相距没几码的距离就有看头 There was something to see every few yards.
有时是牛 Cattle one minute,
又会是羊 先看看这边再看看那边 then sheep the next, peering first this way and then that,
所以开着车你就得习惯左右兼顾 so as a driver you get used to looking both ways at once.
你有没有过... Do you ever get people...
有没有过让那边女士这样的 Do you ever get people like that lady there
认为你是辆免费公车? who think that you are a service bus?
偶有发生 It has happened once or twice.
如果我们前往他们前去的方向 If we're going in the direction that they're going in,
给他们搭个顺风车没什么问题 there's nothing wrong with giving them a lift.
- 你可以让他们搭车? - 哦 是的 是的 -You can give them a lift? -Oh, yes. Yes.
人们看到我们真的停下车让他们搭车会 People are quite surprised when we actually stop and offer them
相当惊讶 而通常他们也对我们相当感谢 a lift and they're usually very grateful to us for, for that.
苏格兰的这部分根本没有铁路 'There's no railway at this side of Scotland at all and it's still
所以仍有可能碰到一个还没看过火车的年轻农民 'possible to meet a young crofter who hasn't even seen a train.
我们沉默了相当长的时间 'We all fell silent for a long time.'
我一路向北进入阿辛特的开阔平原 I'm heading north into the wide open spaces of Assynt
在那儿可看到些最令人摒息的风景 and some of the most breath-taking scenery to be found anywhere.
布莱克说 "这或许可称为无可超越之途 Black says, "This may well be called a route of unsurpassable
只有无树的壮美 "but treeless grandeur."
观察入微 布莱克先生 没有树却很壮美 Well observed, Mr Black. Treeless and grand it is,
在我看来觉得它不可思议地有气场 and for me I've always found it incredibly atmospheric.
我第一次是和我父亲来的 I came here for the first time with my father.
那时我是5岁左右 深夜之时 I was about five years old at the time, and it was late in the evening
他停下车 在那边的路上 and he stopped his car on the road over there to take
拍下了太阳在这些崇山峻岭后面的风景照片 a photograph of the sun setting behind these magnificent mountains.
这里是真正的古老景观 Now this is a truly ancient landscape
这儿发现了一些世界上最古老的岩石 and some of the oldest rocks in the world are found here.
光是看着它就让我兴奋莫名 And just looking at it sends a shiver down my spine.
会小小的惊讶于作家们会步行穿越如此这般 It's little wonder that writers sought inspiration from walking
荒野以获取灵感 through wild places like this.
彭斯 科尔里奇 华兹华斯都曾登上山峰 Burns, Coleridge, Wordsworth all took to the hills.
这部分旅程和我做伴的是罗迪· 乌姆贝尔 Joining me on this part of my trip is Roddy Woomble,
是歌曲作家 也是Idlewild乐队的主唱 songwriter and lead singer of the band Idlewild.
罗迪常常来此寻找灵感 Roddy often comes here to find his muse.
罗迪 阿辛特对于你是个不一般的地方 是不是? Roddy, Assynt is quite a significant place for you, is it not?
是的 大约10年前 我和Idlewild乐队来到这儿 Yeah. About 10 years ago I came here with band, Idlewild, and we wrote
-我们写了一系列的歌 还... -你们为什么选择来这儿? -a collection of songs and... -Why did you choose to come here?
它不像是一个乐队会希望来的地方 It's not exactly the place you imagine a band would come to.
它很大 很荒凉 前不着村后不着店的 It's big, it's bleak, it's in the middle of nowhere really.
那便是原因了 That was kind of why really.
那是我首次体验将我自己 我们自己 It was my first experience of separating myself, ourselves
和所有的干扰以及我们都知道的什么地方隔绝开 from all the distractions and somewhere that we knew, you know.
去到像这儿的某处 这样的话就... And to go somewhere like this where it's just... the possibilities
有无限可能性因为空间感 那以后它就成了 are kind of endless because of the space and subsequently it became
一处我不断回来的最爱之所 就只为了那个原因 a real favourite place for me to come back to, just for that reason really.
这种荒凉 我不知道会不会以某种方式和你的灵魂对话? Does the bleakness, I don't know, speak to your soul in some way?
因为它是那么出奇地荒凉而崎岖 Because it is fantastically bleak and rugged.
它呈现出的这种面貌几乎有些像是超自然的 There's something kind of almost supernatural about the way it looks.
我认为 它关乎空间 思考的空间 It's to do with the space, the space to think, I think.
那便是它的一个重要方面 包围着你的空间 That's an important aspect of it, the space around you.
-这儿有巨大的空间 -是的 没错 -There's a huge space here. -Yeah, there is.
你可以消失在这个空间中 再也找不到了 You could disappear into this space and never be found again.
当我继续我向东的旅程时 我开始理解这样的 As I continue my journey north, I begin to understand how this
迷人风景如何可以激发艺术家和作家 stunning landscape could inspire artists and writers,
使许多人思索人类之存在的微不足道 and lead many to ponder the inconsequential nature of man's existence.
但撇开这些关于存在的思考 我得加快脚步 But leaving behind these existential musings, I must press on.
我行程的下一站是一处大自然的天然之力 The next stop on my itinerary is a place where the elemental forces
显而易见的地方 of nature are very much apparent,
那是苏格兰的最西北端 愤怒角 the most North Westerly point of Scotland, Cape Wrath.
要抵达我的目的地 我横穿了 To get to my destination, I'm making the short crossing
德内斯狭海峡 到达应可算是苏格兰最野性 over the Kyle of Durness to what is surely one of the wildest
最偏远的地方 and remotest places in Scotland.
也许会出人意料 得名为愤怒角并非 Perhaps surprisingly the name Cape Wrath doesn't come
是因为大海的怒吼或者风的咆哮 from the anger of the seas or from the wind,
而是来源于古时挪威维京人 意为转折点 but from an old Norse Viking word meaning turning point.
当维京人看到这处昂然的陆岬时 他们就知道 When the Vikings saw this fearsome headland, they knew it was time
是时候掉转他们的长船头 向东北行驶 返回挪威 to turn their long ships and set sail north east, home to Norway.
多个世纪以来 许多船只和海员 Over the centuries, many ships and seafarers
都在陆岬这儿遭到灭顶之灾 have met their doom on this treacherous headland.
但过去的120年来 愤怒角灯塔矗立守望 But for the past 120 years, the Cape Wrath lighthouse has stood guard.
布莱克的指南书将之描写为文明的安心灯塔 Black's guide describes it as a reassuring beacon of civilisation.
"在汹涌波涛之中 有两个人 "In this waste of waters two individuals of the human race
会盯防着天气 警示船只远离凶险的海岸" "hold watch and ward to signal vessels off the inhospitable coast."
愤怒角不再有灯塔管理人 There are no longer lighthouse keepers at Cape Wrath
但这儿仍有另一种形式的安心举措 but there is still another form of reassurance here
就在荒野之中 in the middle of nowhere,
有座咖啡吧可供疲倦的步行者们休憩一番 a cafe where tired walkers can take a well-earned break.
- 哦 嗨 我来杯茶 好么? - 好 没问题 Oh, hi. Could I have a cup of tea, please? Yeah, no bother.
多有礼貌 'How civilised.'
- 请用 - 非常感谢 Cheers. Thanks very much.
已尽我所能地一路向西 Having gone as far west as I can,
我沿着苏格兰的最高地一路返回前往瑟索 I'm doubling back along the very top of Scotland towards Thurso,
瑟索得名自北欧的雷神 索尔 named after the Norse god of thunder, Thor.
但吸引我注意力的不是城市 而是大海 But it's not the town that grabs my attention, it's the sea,
和布莱克的那个时代一样 just as it did in Black's day.
"瑟索湾是个非同凡响之所 "The bay of Thurso is a magnificent object
由大片半环状的沙滩组成 "and consists of a semi-circular sweep of sandy beach
其上有长片的大浪带着低沉的轰响施展着它们的威力" "on which the long line of breakers yield their power with hollow moan."
布莱克对于当今瑟索何以吸引观光客是一语中的 Black's picks up on exactly why Thurso is popular with tourists today.
这里强劲的海浪可与夏威夷的相媲美 The powerful waves here have been compared with those of Hawaii,
使瑟索成为一处世界闻名的冲浪之所 making Thurso into a world-renowned surfing destination.
每年都有世界顶尖的冲浪者们来到这个小镇 Every year the world's top surfers descend on this small town,
参加奥尼尔冷水经典冲浪大赛 to take part in the O'Neill Cold Water Classic,
它是国际顶级赛事之一 one of the premier international competitions.
可能很难相信 It may be hard to believe
这处冲浪者的天堂 but this surfer's paradise
是于上世纪70年代由一小群冲浪爱好者首度发现的 was first discovered by a handful of enthusiasts in the 1970s,
其中一位早期冲浪先锋便是帕特·基尔南 and one of those early surfing pioneers is Pat Kiernan
他来这儿是为搜寻瑟索的著名大浪 who came here in search of Thurso's famous wave.
帕特 你能跟我讲讲这个人人皆知的大浪么 Pat, can you tell me about this wave that everyone talks about.
好的 呃 那是世界级的大浪 Right, well, it's a world class wave
在30多年前我们这一帮人来此冲浪的 that was surfed by a handful of us 30 or so years ago
它也经由我们所进行的 and it's just gradually grown in fame
各种竞赛而声名鹊起 现在已家喻户晓了 through the different contests that we've had and it's now legendary.
- 那个浪有多高 - 我看到的浪有20英尺高
- 那很巨大 - 确实挺让人害怕的
从很多方面来看你自己就是苏格兰的冲浪先锋
呃 是的 大概在1976年 我还是学生 就想找挑战
你受到大海吸引 受到冲浪冒险的吸引
是的 是海浪把我带到这儿来的 毫无疑问
我可以想见那时在这儿聚有很多冲浪手 I can't imagine there would have been very many surfers up here.
当地人肯定认为你们都完全疯了
- 为什么会来这儿冲浪? 没理由啊 - 是的
没错 我记得有一天 有个像是当地渔夫的人
站在海滩这儿 看我们在冲浪
他把海岸警卫叫来了 海岸警卫是从威克特来的
有20英里远 来救他 以为他在冲浪 他当然没事
世界各地的人们来到这些水域冲浪
他们来自的地方有澳大利亚 新西兰 夏威夷...
他们怎么会想到这样冰冷的北方海域来?
他们热爱它 来此为的就是浪 是浪本身
在你看来 冲浪的这种激情是什么?
那就是 就是自由 有不一样的感受 不是你通常感觉到的样子 很奇妙
我想很快我就要自己来尝试了
自由是我脱离寒冷后的感觉
显然在维多利亚时代没多少冲浪者
而且我还不能完全确定为何他们会有此特别的爱好
更别提从头到脚地给套上橡胶的无尊严感了
现在我即将尝试即便是格里尔森牧师 I'm now going to attempt something that even the Reverend Grierson
也会却步的事 我将于水上行走 would have balked at. I'm going to walk on water.
想要了解究竟是什么驱使着人们勇于挑战 To try to understand just what it is that compels people to brave
冰冷的北海 我得在下水前请教下 the icy North Sea, I'm taking a lesson from champion surfer
冠军冲浪手-希拉·芬利森 Sheila Finlayson before taking the plunge.
希拉 我有冲浪板了 现在我得了解些啥? Sheila, I've got my board. What do I need to know now?
- 你要做的是就是平趴在冲浪板上划水 - 好的 - What you need to do is you need to lie on the board and paddle. -Right.
像那样 Like that.
当你感到有浪朝向你来时 When you feel a wave coming towards you
- 我希望你划水 - 好的 -I expect you to paddle. -Right.
将你双手 Put your hands
放在板的两侧 to the side of the board.
像这样把自己撑起来 一脚向前 就这样 Bring yourself up like that. Put one foot forward. Like so.
- 哦 那就得讲究些技巧了 - 是的 -Oh, that's the tricky bit then. -Yeah.
理论上就那样 似乎相当直截了当 So that's the theory. Seems pretty straight forward.
好 我准备好了 Well, I'm ready.
好极了 但你得把帽子脱了 好了 Excellent but you'll need to lose the hat. Right.
是时候让自己面对原始力量了 Time to pit myself against the elements.
好了 我将在板子上站起来 Right, so I'm going to get up on the board.
耶 耶 太棒了! Yeah, yeah. Fantastic!
那很好 保罗 That's, that's good, Paul.
受到我前几次尝试以及希拉热情的鼓励 Encouraged by my early attempts, and by Sheila's enthusiasm,
我觉得我已经准备好技巧那部分了 I feel I'm ready for the tricky part,
真正地站起来 actually standing up.
哦 糟糕 糟糕透顶! Oh, that's rubbish. Absolute rubbish!
我原指望能在水上走 可似乎只是困在了 I had hoped the walk on water but I just seem to have been
回头浪当中 caught in the undertow.
我确信那里面有某种精神训诫 I'm sure there's some kind of moral homily in that.
突然间 就有如神助 And then suddenly, as if by divine intervention,
一切都顺利起来了 everything seems to click.
恰到好处的浪将我抬起来 The perfect wave to picks me up
我几乎感受到了大海的原始力量 and I almost felt at one with the elemental force of the sea.
呃 也许没有 Well, maybe not.
我感到我被打败了 被浪打败了 不 不 I feel I'm defeated, defeated by the waves. No, no.
根本不是 你做得很好 被原始力量打败了 啊! Not at all. You're doing grand. Defeated by the elements. Ah!
- 我认为你做得很好 - 你太客气了 希拉 -I think you did very well. -You're very kind, Sheila.
- 那儿某处肯定有个浪会留下我的名字 - 会有的 保罗 -There is a wave out there somewhere with my name on it. -There is, Paul.
- 我确定 毫无疑问 - 我在等着完美的大浪 -I'm sure. Undoubtedly. - I'm waiting for the perfect wave.
在我的冲浪体验中几淹半死后 Half drowned by my surfing experience,
我重整旗鼓以完成旅程的最后一段 I pull myself together to make the final leg of my journey.
已经走到这么远了 要是不去那处 Having come this far it would be churlish not to go to
所有前往北苏格兰的传统旅行终点站就太无礼了 the traditional end point of all journeys to the north of Scotland.
这里便是 Well, this is it,
约翰奥格罗茨 我得说它有点点稀松平常 John O'Groats, which I have to say is just a wee bit underwhelming.
我一直不能理解为何 And I've never really understood why
那么多的远距离旅行者将此地做为始末点 so many long-distance journeys either begin or end here.
你常听到人们从兰兹角走到约翰奥格罗茨 You often hear of folk walking from Land's End to John O'Groats,
但为什么? but why?
这里不是苏格兰的最北部 This is not the most northerly part of Scotland.
甚至不是最东北部 It's not even the most north easterly.
所以为了克服我那高潮余波感 我将结束我的徒步 So to overcome my sense of anti-climax I'm going to end my hike
于苏格兰真正边缘的路边上 just along the road at the real edge of Scotland.
如果你所要寻找的是大自然的原始美 If it's the elemental beauty of nature you're looking for,
这个地方便是了 then this is the place to be.
我站在邓肯斯比角的悬崖上 I'm standing on the cliffs of Duncansby Head
地处苏格兰的最右角 at the top right hand corner of Scotland.
从这处望去 海岸一路向西直达愤怒角 From this point, the coast runs west all the way to Cape Wrath,
我身后是彭特兰湾的群岛 and behind me are the islands of the Pentland Firth
它们之后是奥克尼群岛 and behind them, Orkney.
朝向南边我们可看到美妙的邓肯斯比海栈 And to the south we've got the fantastic sea stacks
它们看起来更像鲨鱼鳍或是巫婆帽 of Duncansby that look more like shark fins or witches' caps.
这些锯齿状的岩石尖顶正是大海以及大自然 These pinnacles of jagged rock are monuments to the relentless power
原始力量之坚韧力量的丰碑 of the sea and the raw force of nature.
这是个多么美妙之地来结束我这趟 What a fantastic place for me to end my Grand Tour
寻找原始之美的盛大之旅 我想也许我已经找到了 in search of elemental beauty. I think I may have found it.
下周的苏格兰盛大之旅 我将起程前往探究 Next week on Grand Tours of Scotland I'm on a voyage to discover
各行各业的观光客们为何喜爱壮美的克莱德湾 how visitors from all walks of life enjoyed the mighty Firth of Clyde.