这是光滑的几何体
It's sleek, geometrical.
由铝和玻璃组成的视觉表面
A vision of aluminium and glass.
你绝不会想到它和新艺术运动有关，是吗
It's the last place you'd go looking for Art Nouveau, isn't it?
不是吗
Isn't it?
这是在诺维奇郊区展示视觉艺术的Sainsbury Centre
This is the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts on the outskirts of Norwich.
这是英国零售巨头Sainsbury家族展示收藏艺术品的场所
Home to the art collection of the British retail dynasty, the Sainsbury family.
它也是Anderson的新艺术收藏品的展示地
It's also home to the Anderson Collection of Art Nouveau,
是欧洲的最大最佳个人收藏之一
one of the largest and finest private collections in Europe.
新艺术运动产生于19世纪的世纪之交，起源于工业城市生生不息的能量
Art Nouveau emerged at the turn of the 19th century from the restless energies of the industrial city.
在这个达尔文和弗洛伊德的时代，社会关注自然、性和女性解放
In the age of Darwin and Freud, it was fixated on nature, sex, and the newly-liberated woman.
在短短十年内，它席卷世界
In less than a decade it went from nowhere to everywhere.
随后彻底地消失了
And then disappeared completely.
这周我将在英国，在这十年内这个国家 被奥斯卡·王尔德和奥博利·比亚兹莱的丑闻围绕
This week I'm in Britain where the decadence of Oscar Wilde and Aubrey Beardsley scandalised the nation.
异国风情与天才的英式才华相遇，诞生了设计史上非常独特的一刻
Where the sensuality of exotic foreign influences met the genius of British craftsmanship to create a wholly unique moment in design.
随着品牌Liberty走向全球化，在萨利山的臂弯里 一颗非凡的宝石正在成形
And as brand names such as Liberty's went global, an extraordinary hidden gem took shape in the crook of a Surrey hill.
性与情
新艺术运动的诱惑
英国城市
想象一下，19世纪的泰晤士河
Imagine this, the Thames, in the 19th century.
蒸汽船向全世界运输货物 带回了帝国甚至更久远的关于艺术和设计的无主珍宝
Steam ships take our products all over the world and return with treasure troves of art and design from the Empire and beyond.
这是一个耀眼的时代，充满了进步和改变 但同样涌动着更多不祥的暗流
It was a dazzling time, full of progress and change, but there were also more ominous undercurrents.
在约瑟夫·康拉德于1899年出版的《黑暗之心》的开篇 泰晤士河的河水污秽拥塞，带来瘟疫，这不是没有来由的
Not for nothing is Joseph Conrad's Heart Of Darkness, published 1899, opening on the waters of this river, foul and pestilential.
如今，泰晤士河岸由对冲基金经理管理（很值钱） 但当时，只有艺术家们愿意在河岸居住
These days, the river banks are the preserve of hedge fund managers but back then only artists could be persuaded to find their accommodation along its shores.
他们相信，迅速成长的工业城市会被一场美学革命改变
They believed that our burgeoning industrial cities could be reformed by a beauty revolution.
对新艺术设计师来说，一切由一场改变了19世纪英国设计史的重大事件开始
For Art Nouveau designers, that began with an event that changed the story of 19th century British design.
1854年，一艘有着7艘船和2000人的美国舰队驶进了长崎港
In 1854, an American fleet of seven ships and 2,000 men sailed into the harbour of Nagasaki.
在几个世纪的闭关锁国之后，日本被迫开放边关贸易 大量日本商品涌入英国
After centuries of isolation, Japan was forced to open her borders to trade and Japanese goods started flooding into Britain.
这些商品得到了艺术家的追捧，并由此开启了英国设计的新纪元
Collected avidly by artists, these goods inspired a new approach to British design.
在日本商品中，有新的图案，花朵，植物和鸟作为装饰
New patterns, flowers, plants, birds adorned their work.
这是一种全新的佳作，一种全新的感官享受
There was a new delicacy, a new sensuality.
日本被看做西方的反面：充满异国情调、世俗的、无拘无束的
Japan was seen as everything that the West was not. Exotic, sensual, uninhibited.
在伦敦， James Abbott McNeil Whistler绘制了穿和服的女人 暗示了丝绸下的淫荡
In London, James Abbott McNeil Whistler painted women in kimonos hinting at the sensuality beneath the silk.
作为一个在法国和俄国生活过的美国人 Whistler是一个懂现代国际议程的麻烦制造者
An American who had lived in France and Russia, Whistler was a troublemaker with a modern international agenda.
他将日本风格带入了一个运动 这个运动坚称艺术是无社会和道德责任的
He harnessed Japanese style to a movement that insisted that art had no social or moral agenda.
艺术仅仅为艺术而做
Art was for art's sake.
一种新的美学崇拜诞生了
A new cult of beauty was born.
在先锋派中这是一种全新的感官风格
There was a whole new style of sensuousness amongst the Avant Garde.
它被称作唯美主义文艺思潮 我将探寻这个思潮，在哪里呢
It was called the Aesthetic Movement and I've come to find out about it, where else,
就在伦敦西郊的Shepherds Bush种满向日葵的林荫大道上
but on the sun-kissed boulevards of Shepherds Bush, West London.
很好看
Mmm, they're nice!
嗨，Peter，喜欢我的花吗？很可爱 我是Stephen
Hello, Peter. Wow. Do you like my flowers? Lovely. I'm Stephen.
嗨，好吗 这是送你的
Hi, how do you do? These are for you.
非常感谢，很美
Thank you very much. They're beautiful.
设计史学家Peter Fiell花费数年，致力于重建一座唯美主义文艺风格的房子
'Design historian Peter Fiell has spent years lovingly reconstructing a room in the Aesthetic style.'
哦，很有趣，不是么？很棒啊，Peter
Oh, this is fun, isn't it? This is great, Peter.
我感觉我们两个最好穿上和服 你觉得怎么样呢？毕竟我们才刚见面
I feel we should both slip into some kimonos. Don't know how you feel about that. I only just met you.
我们已经有向日葵了 确实是的。非常棒的地方
We've got sunflowers. I suppose we have. Fantastic place.
这里也有一些向日葵，和我带给你的一样
I notice there are some sunflowers here, like the ones I brought you.
是的，就像你采来的一样，送给我这些漂亮的向日葵
Yes, well, as you probably gathered, having gifted me those beautiful sunflowers,
唯美主义文艺思潮的主要图案之一正是向日葵 代表了太阳、光明…
one of major motifs, you know, of the Aesthetic Movement is the sunflower and it literally represents the sun and warmth and...
美？美
Beauty? Beauty.
这些图案不断重复
And you see these motifs recurring time and time again.
这些异国情调的向日葵、鸢尾花、孔雀和鹤，乌木家具和白底蓝色柳树图案
'With their exotic sunflowers and irises, peacocks and cranes, ebonised furniture and willow patterns,
唯美主义文艺者们暂时抛弃了传统英国设计中茂密的荆棘和蒺藜
the Aesthetes made a break with the dense briars and brambles of traditional British design.'
这就是奥斯卡·王尔德说房间很美的意思，是吗
This is what Oscar Wilde meant when he talked about the house beautiful, wasn't it?
被看做一个美学鉴赏家是很重要的 这样最后才会成为一个有好品味的人
It was critical to be seen as a connoisseur of beauty and, ultimately, as someone who had refined good taste.
Whistler和他的朋友——诗人和剧作家奥斯卡·王尔德 在像这个以日本文化为灵感的房间开庭
'Whistler and his friend, the poet and playwright Oscar Wilde, held court in Japanese-inspired rooms like this one,
他们还在这里分享他们从波西米亚巴黎的旅行中带回来的国外观点
'also sharing other foreign ideas that they brought back from their frequent trips to bohemian Paris.
这些离经叛道的关于性、死亡和艺术的想法 超过了信奉上帝的维多利亚社会的底线
'Their scandalous ideas about sex, death and art were beyond the pale of God-fearing Victorian society.'
再次感谢这些向日葵。不客气，它们很美
Thank you for these flowers again. It's my pleasure. They look nice.
跟你说，它需要你这里的一个东西，是不？是的
Tell you what, it needed something in here, didn't it? Yes!
我把它放到你背后，这是个很配的花瓶
I'll put them right behind you here. That's the perfect spot.
1894年，一个新的信徒加入了唯美主义文艺思潮的大营
'In 1894, a new disciple joined the ranks of these Aesthetes.'
作为一个推崇大胆新艺术的离经叛道者 他发掘了巴黎的先锋气质和日本设计的感官性
An iconoclast, brandishing a bold new art, he captured the avant garde spirit of Paris and the sensuality of Japanese design.
插画家奥博利·比亚兹莱是英国的第一个新艺术运动实践者
The illustrator Aubrey Beardsley was the first exponent of Art Nouveau in Britain.
他从任何角度来说都是先行者 他在19岁的年纪突然蹦到了伦敦的舞台上
He was one of the first anywhere. He burst on to the London scene at the tender age of 19.
他的事业发展迅速，非常耀眼，无法控制，发展远远超乎想象
His career would be meteoric, dazzling, uncontrollable, and over far too soon.
年轻的比亚兹莱听说王尔德正在写一个关于圣经中的荡妇莎乐美的戏剧
The teenage Beardsley heard that Wilde was writing a play about the biblical temptress Salome.
他创作了一幅插图，抱着侥幸的想法希望能打动奥斯卡和他的出版商
He produced an illustration on spec in the hope that he might impress Oscar and his publisher.
在插画中，比亚兹莱将带鞭绳的有罪女人莎乐美变成了一个美女妖精
In it, Beardsley transforms the sinful Salome with whiplash curves into a femme fatale.
她紧抱着施洗圣约翰被割下的头颅
Here she is clasping the severed head of saintly John the Baptist.
图中公然宣扬，感官性和无道德性能媲美波西米亚巴黎的任何东西
The blatant sensuality and amorality of this image rivalled anything from bohemian Paris.
王尔德被完全打动了 比亚兹莱受托绘制1894年莎乐美的英文首版的插画
Wilde was duly impressed and Beardsley was commissioned to illustrate the first English edition of Salome in 1894.
他的图具有令人惊讶的创新
His drawings were startlingly new.
它们是感官性的，是国际性的
They were sensuous. They were international.
它们是新艺术运动
They were Art Nouveau.
我认为，比亚兹莱是英国最与众不同，最非凡的年轻插画家
Beardsley is, I suppose, the most distinctive, most extraordinary young illustrator that we've ever had in England.
这幅画叫《孔雀裙》，是比亚兹莱最著名的设计
This is called the Peacock Skirt and it's probably the most celebrated from Beardsley's set of designs.
当时的人们会觉得这幅画非常震撼
People would have thought this was very shocking at the time.
它展示了比亚兹莱表达文学作品的方式
It absolutely exemplifies the way in which he'd found a new way of representing a literary subject.
没有背景
There's no suggestion of the background.
他直入主题，不拖泥带水，重点关注人物形象
He cuts to the chase, as it were. It's just about the figures.
这是他从日本彩色木刻水印画中学到的
That's the sort of thing he learnt from looking at Japanese prints.
在某个角度上来说，它就属于新艺术运动 不同的是比亚兹莱并不打算做同样的事情
It's also, in a way, stylistically what we now call Art Nouveau, except that Beardsley was not trying to do exactly the same sort of thing.
他知道在欧洲大陆发生的事情 但他最终还是决定在英国发展自己的事业
He knew what was going on on the continent but he was, actually, to a great degree, ploughing his own furrow here in England.
比亚兹莱的鞭绳曲线定义了新艺术运动中他独特的日式风格
'Beardsley's whiplash curves came to define his unique Japanesque version of Art Nouveau.'
这个著名的鞭绳线，与其他东西分开了，非常难画是不，我能想象
And this famous whiplash line here, apart from anything else, that's extraordinarily difficult to do, isn't it, I would imagine?
需要活力和自信来一气呵成
Just to have the elan and the confidence just to dash that off.
这是他擅长的一种独特的书法
This is something he excels at, which is this kind of extraordinary calligraphic energy.
他是使用钢笔画画的天才
He is the great master of drawing with a pen.
对那些无法做到的人来说，这不是普通的手艺，是吗
And for people who haven't done that themselves, that's no mean feat, is it?
甚至无法画出其中一个漩涡
You don't just produce one of these swirls.
要画出这样一幅完美的图确实是非常难的
It is actually very difficult to create a drawing of this kind of faultless technique.
如果你喜欢比亚兹莱的笔迹 想真的画成这样，记住，要一只浸在墨水中的喷溅钢笔
Beardsley's penmanship, if you like, the actual craftsmanship of working with, remember, a spluttering pen dipped in ink...
在图中那些完美的装饰性细节中 比亚兹莱的顽皮和颠覆呼之欲出
'In the finely-drawn decorative details of his work, Beardsley's mischief and subversion plays out.
魔鬼当然隐藏在细节中
'The devil is certainly in his details.'
仔细看烛台
Look closely at those candlesticks.
是的，它们正是你想的那样
Yes, they are what you think they are.
出版商曾开玩笑地说，要拿放大镜仔细观察，并颠倒看
The publishers actually jokingly said you had to look at everything through a microscope and upside down
以防他偷偷画进一些下流的东西
in order to make sure he hadn't smuggled in some kind of indecencies.
这是年轻人的艺术吗？当你变老，你也变得畏手畏脚
Is it the art of a young man? As you get older, do you get more cautious?
我觉得他处在一个年轻人，创新艺术家和作家的圈子中 他们热衷于戏弄大众
I think he moved in a circle of youngish, quite revolutionary artists and writers who enjoyed teasing the public.
（对公众）竖起中指，这是个合适的词语
Cocking a snook, if that's the phrase I'm looking for.
正是这个意思
Absolutely. It is exactly the word.
对伦敦艺术界来说，他是那个时代的 无道德的，格格不入的毫无顾忌的孩童
'To the London arts establishment he was the amoral, alien enfant terrible of his day.'
Studio杂志，1893年创立的先锋设计的国际圣经
The Studio Magazine, the international bible for avant garde design founded in 1893,
重点介绍了比亚兹莱的作品，并再现了莎乐美的插图
featured Beardsley's work and reproduced his Salome illustrations.
他的日式人物和装饰性曲线，随着杂志向全世界传播 被欧洲大陆新出现的新艺术运动吸收
His Japanesque figures and decorative curves, distributed all over the world in the magazine, were absorbed into Art Nouveau as it emerged on the continent.
比亚兹莱成功了
Beardsley had arrived.
这是花花公子的时代
This was the age of the dandy.
这个时代人们爱好炫耀外表、纽扣的颜色和裁缝的名头
It was the time when what you said, the cut of your jib, the colour of your button hole, the name of your tailor,
人们往往夸大事实
all these things counted for at least as much as what you actually DID in life.
Matthew Sturgiss是比亚兹莱的传记作者
'Matthew Sturgiss is Beardsley's biographer.'
嗨，你一定是Matthew，我是Stephen，你好吗
Hello, you must be Matthew. I'm Stephen. How are you?
很好，多谢。要剪个头？是的，为什么不呢
Very well, thanks. Fancy a haircut? Well, why not?
Matthew，画画对奥博利·比亚兹莱有多重要
Matthew, how important was image to Aubrey?
画画对他非常重要吗
Was image crucial to him?
非常重要
Hugely important.
是作为他的艺术的反射和投射
Really both as a reflection and a projection of his art.
他喜欢机智的妙语，喜欢穿得漂亮
He delighted in witty bon mots. He dressed beautifully.
他也意识到他独特的体格，成为了他的个人形象标志之一
He was conscious too, of his extraordinary physique and that became part of his public persona.
比亚兹莱奇怪的发型和时髦的穿着产生了效果，但并不全是刻意的
'Beardsley's strange haircut and dandified garb were cultivated for effect but it wasn't all artifice.
他的瘦削是肺结核所致，但即使这种压力也没能阻止他的幽默感
'His gauntness was the result of incurable tuberculosis, though not even the gravity of that condition stopped his searing humour.'
他有次开玩笑说，我太感动了，即使我的肺都感动了
He once said that, you know, I'm so affected, even my lungs are affected.
他知道自己活不久，所以需要尽快成名？
But he knew he didn't have long, so he had to make an impact?
是的，我是说，他从幼儿时期就患上肺结核 他知道自己时间不多了
Yes, I mean, from childhood he'd suffered with tuberculosis and he realised that time was likely to be short.
我觉得这对他的工作强度和工作方式起了决定性影响
I think that did lend an intensity to his work and the way he worked.
比亚兹莱的宏大的野心、顽皮和对名声的渴望起了致命的化学反应
'Beardsley's intense ambition, mischief and hunger for attention were a lethal combination.'
Matthew和我来到了伦敦西部的Cadogan 一个在比亚兹莱耀眼的事业中扮演了重要角色的旅馆
Matthew and I have come to the Cadogan in West London,a hotel that would play a crucial part in the unravelling of Beardsley's brilliant career.
王尔德和比亚兹莱会一起喝茶吗？他们是朋友吗？
Would Wilde and Beardsley have taken tea together? Were they friendly?
他们关系的实质是什么，你怎么说
What was the nature of their relationship, would you say?
王尔德年纪较大
Wilde was the older figure.
他比比亚兹莱大概大20岁
He was some 20 years Beardsley's senior.
他是那个时代的艺术名家
He was the great artistic personality of the age,
而比亚兹莱曾经是个打破常规的人
and Beardsley was ever an iconoclast
虽然他非常崇拜王尔德，但他也喜欢开王尔德玩笑 破坏他和戳破他的自命不凡
and although he admired Wilde enormously, he also enjoyed poking fun at him, undermining him, pricking his pretensions.
它不寻常，第一眼看到，会看到很奇妙的绘图技巧
It's extraordinary. You know, at first sight what you have here is a fantastic draughtsmanship,
同时，也会有Viz杂志的感觉
and, at the same time, the sensibility of Viz magazine.
是这样啊
Is that fair?
是有点那个感觉
There is certainly an element of that.
王尔德曾经抱怨说，画中的一些细节就像学生在抄写本空白处写的顽皮的涂鸦
I mean, Wilde complained that some of the details were like the naughty doodles that schoolboys introduced into the margins of their copybooks.
王尔德的怀疑很正当
Wilde had good cause to be suspicious.
在戏剧《莎乐美》中，王尔德将月亮比作一个寻欢作乐的肥胖的老女人
In his play, Salome, Wilde had compared the moon to a fat, pleasure-seeking old woman.
但在比亚兹莱的插图中，他给月亮画上了王尔德的特征
But in one of Beardsley's illustrations, he gives the moon Wilde's features.
比亚兹莱作为当时精神文化圈的一员 应该已经知道了关于王尔德双重生活的传言
Beardsley, as being someone in the inner cultural circle of the time, would have known rumours circulating about Wilde's double life,
知道了他对同性恋人群的吸引力
his attraction to the homosexual milieu,
和他作为一个烂醉的女人，到处寻找有共鸣的情人的传闻
and so the notion of him being a bad drunken woman searching everywhere for lovers would have carried a certain sort of resonance.
某个角度说，这些消息泄露出来是非常危险的
And in a way, that was dangerous information to be being leaked out.
1894年，比亚兹莱合作创立了一本艺术杂志《黄面志》来推广新的作品和艺术
In 1894, Beardsley co-founded an arts journal called The Yellow Book to celebrate new writing and art.
作为美编，他拥有了发展他独特风格的自由
As art editor, he had the freedom to develop his unique style.
悲剧的是，这项令人吃惊的才能将被一个震惊19世纪的英国和欧洲的丑闻所掩盖
Tragically, this startling talent was about to be eclipsed by a scandal that traumatised 19th-century Britain and Europe.
将近四年，王尔德都与小他16岁的阿尔弗莱德·道格拉斯有暧昧关系
For nearly four years, Wilde had been having an affair with Lord Alfred Douglas who was 16 years his junior.
1895年，道格拉斯的父亲昆斯伯理侯爵 在俱乐部留下一张卡片，称他为“鸡奸者”
In 1895, Douglas' father, the Marquess of Queensbury, left a card at Wilde's club calling him a sodomite.
王尔德告昆斯伯理侯爵诽谤，但适得其反
Wilde sued Queensbury for libel, but it backfired.
昆斯伯理侯爵得到了支持，而王尔德被控严重猥亵
Queensbury's allegation was upheld and Wilde was charged with gross indecency.
奥斯卡·王尔德的房间就在这里，118
Now, Oscar Wilde's room is down here, 118.
就是在这里，他戴着精致的衣领，被警察以“有伤风化”罪带走
This is where he had his exquisite collar felt the day the rozzers came to pick him up on charges of indecency.
比亚兹莱的《黄面志》就在这时候出场了，造成了悲剧的后果
Beardsley's Yellow Book comes back into the story here, with tragic consequences.
每个人都想出现在《黄面志》里，大部分是的 而奥斯卡·王尔德例外
Everybody wanted to be in it and most of them were, with the notable exception of Oscar Wilde.
《黄面志》有意识地模仿当时最刺激的法国小说
The Yellow Book was consciously modelled on the most provocative French fiction of the day -
在黄色封皮下有来自欧洲大陆的最无耻的小说
cheeky novels coming in from the continent in yellow wrappers.
1895年4月5日，两名警官将王尔德带出旅馆 当时他的胳膊下夹着一本黄色的书
On 5 April 1895, two arresting officers led Wilde out of the hotel. Under his arm was a yellow book.
它事实上是一本前面提到的法国小说 但没人注意，也没人在乎
It was actually a copy of one of the aforesaid French novels but nobody noticed or cared.
记者报道说王尔德离开旅馆时，手里夹着一本比亚兹莱的《黄面志》
Journalists reported that Wilde had left the hotel with a copy of Beardsley's Yellow Book.
对王尔德的反感情绪十分高涨 民众将愤怒转移到比亚兹莱的出版商那里
The loathing for Wilde was so intense that a crowd took it upon themselves to go round to Beardsley's publishers and put the windows out.
惊慌下，他的老板炒了他
His boss, in a panic, fired him.
不仅是一个，而是两个伟大的事业和生命毁了
Not one but two great careers and lives were blighted.
王尔德被判了两年的强制劳役
Wilde was sentenced to two years hard labour.
这次丑闻在英国产生的余波是毁灭性的
The fallout from the scandal across Britain was devastating.
王尔德审讯到底多重要
And how important was the Wilde trial?
新闻里如此这般的描述这个事件：本年之审判，世纪之审判之类的
We hear in the news that such-and-such a case is the trial of the year, the trial of the century,
整件事真的很轰动，是吗
but that really was a huge case, wasn't it?
1895年王尔德审判事件不能更重要了
I would say that it's probably not possible to exaggerate the importance of the Oscar Wilde trial in 1895.
它损害了大不列颠尤其是英国的文化 它改变了伦敦的风气，并真的很超前
It traumatised British and specifically English culture, transformed the atmosphere in London and really did jump out at the time.
它扰乱了整个国家
It upset the entire nation.
实际上，这件事使得当时以及之后在英国的 高级、先锋派和新艺术设计师和艺术家的生存都变得非常困难
And I would say, in effect, made practicing as an advanced or an Avant Garde and Art Nouveau designer or artist extremely difficult in England after that time,
因为王尔德与艺术世界的联系非常宽广
because Wilde was loosely and broadly associated with that world.
对比亚兹莱的影响力多大？这件事影响多深？它影响多深远？
How influential was Beardsley? How deep did it go? How pervasive was it?
比亚兹莱应该说毫无疑问是风格的关键人物，其实是顶尖人物
Well, we would say that Beardsley was probably absolutely key for the style, paramount in fact.
在19世纪的最后四分之一时间里，有很多英语运动
There are lots of English movements around in the last quarter of the 19th century
比亚兹莱将它们组合在一起，创造了新艺术运动的开端，他是先驱
and Beardsley pulls everything together to create what is going to become Art Nouveau. He is the first one to do that.
关键和标签，我认为是鞭绳线
And the key - the signature, I suppose - is the whiplash line.
这奇怪的拉升线异常迅速地被大众接受了 并在19世纪晚期的建筑和设计中成为了占主导地位的形象
That strange tensile shape that everybody picks up on incredibly quickly and becomes the dominant image of the late 19th century in architecture and design.
尽管有才智和华丽的风格，但比亚兹莱已经越界了，他无法回头
Despite his wit and bravura style, Beardsley had crossed a line that he couldn't come back from.
在王尔德丑闻之后，他被中伤，他的艺术也被迫转入地下
After the Wilde scandal, he was vilified and his art forced under the counter.
他为声名狼藉的色情书籍出版商Leonard Smithers工作
He worked for Leonard Smithers, an infamous publisher of literary erotica.
Smithers委托比亚兹莱为阿里斯托芬的戏剧《莉希翠塔》画插画 《莉希翠塔》 讲述了一个反对丈夫行使夫妻权利的妇女团体
Smithers commissioned Beardsley to illustrate Aristophanes' play, Lysistrata, about a community of women who deny their husbands their conjugal rights.
比亚兹莱已经没有什么可以失去的
Beardsley had nothing to lose.
但就在王尔德丑闻三年后，肺结核最终击倒了他
But then, just three years after the Wilde scandal, tuberculosis finally claimed him.
当时比亚兹莱仅仅25岁
Beardsley was just 25 years old.
他让人震惊的新艺术版本已经成为了不能说之秘
His shocking version of Art Nouveau had become the style that dare not speak its name.
但那不意味着它完全消失了 相反，鞭绳线已经流入了英国设计师的血液
But that didn't mean it had gone altogether. On the contrary. The whiplash curve had got under the skin of British designers.
他们继承了鞭绳线…然后加入他们自己的东西.
So they took those curves... and then added something of their own.
凯尔特雾的喷雾，再加上一点点中世纪的神秘，就是新艺术的独特英式风
A spray of Celtic mist, just a hint of medieval mystery to create a version of Art Nouveau that was uniquely British.
当比亚兹莱向日本和法国寻找灵感时
While Beardsley had looked to Japan and France for his ideas,
更文雅的新艺术吸收了英国工艺传统 它的出现要归功于一个特别的人的影响
this more polite version of Art Nouveau drew on British craft traditions and on the influence of one man in particular.
威廉·莫里斯——工匠、诗人、出版家、设计师、社会主义者 一个全能的维多利亚时代的梦想家
William Morris - craftsman, poet, publisher, designer, socialist, all-round Victorian visionary.
他是工艺美术运动的推手 工艺美术运动是欧洲设计史最有影响力的运动之一
He was the driving force behind Arts and Crafts, one of the most influential movements in all European design.
在他对美的追求中，莫里斯呼唤自然的能量和中世纪的过去
In his quest for beauty, Morris invoked the power of nature and our medieval past.
工艺美术运动也许受到了英国历史的影响 但莫里斯追求的是一个全新的未来
Arts and Crafts may have been inspired by British history, but Morris was fighting for a brave new future,
在其中，美击败了工业
one in which beauty triumphed over industry.
现在很难相信，但在莫里斯的时代 在Hammersmith，泰晤士河被污染了，很丑
It's hard to believe now, but back in Morris's day, even here, in Hammersmith, the Thames was polluted and ugly.
事实上，这正是莫里斯和他的军团试图改变的 因为他们的艺术、他们的设计不仅仅为了装饰房屋
In fact, it's one of the things that Morris and his cohorts wanted to change, because their art, their design wasn't just about prettifying houses.
它也是一场革命
It was also about revolution.
它改变了这个世界，一次一个壁纸
It was changing the world one wallpaper at a time.
1890年代，中年莫里斯经常绕着泰晤士河做日常运动 去拜访他亲密的朋友，社会主义伙伴，出版商Emery Walker
In the 1890s, the middle-aged Morris used to take his daily constitutional here along the Thames to visit his close friend and fellow socialist, the publisher Emery Walker.
嗨，你是Helen吗？我是的。我是Stephen，幸会
Hello, are you Helen? I am, yes. I'm Stephen, very nice to meet you.
进来吧 谢谢，很高兴进来
Do come through. Thank you, I'd love to.
Helen Elletson是Walker的房子的管理者
'Helen Elletson is the curator of Walker's house.
满是莫里斯的设计，它也是一份工艺美术运动的遗产
'Full of Morris's designs, it's still a testament to the Arts and Crafts vision.'
它保持了原样是吗？是的，完全和Walker的时代保持原样
And this is just as it was, is it? It is, yes, just as it was in the Walkers' day.
这里能让人感到真正的平静，是吗
There's a real sense of peace in here, isn't there?
很惊人
It's incredible.
对参观者来说最震撼的，我真正喜欢的
What's really striking as a visitor, and what I really like,
我以为这里会在玻璃和天鹅绒绳后面，写着“不准碰”
is I expected a lot of it to be behind glass and velvet rope and "do not touch".
它完全不是那样
It's not like that at all.
它更有一个私人居室的感觉，事实上更像一个时间密封器
It has more the feel of a private home, a time capsule, actually.
它是一个家，到1999年都有人住 自从Walker家族住进来之后就没有变过
It is a family home, it was lived in until 1999, unchanged since the Walker family lived here.
他们是很亲密的朋友，威廉·莫里斯甚至说 没有看到Emery Walker，他的一天是不完整的
They were great friends and William Morris in fact said his day wasn't complete without a sight of Emery Walker.
那是一个人送另一个的可爱的礼物是吗？绝对是
That's a lovely tribute from one man to another, isn't it? Definitely.
是的，他们经常见面，谈论印刷和对于政治和文学的共同兴趣 他们真的非常亲密
Yes, they used to meet each other regularly to talk about printing, their shared interest in politics, literature, so they were very close together.
莫里斯的手工印刷设计，有着玫瑰、荆棘和蒺藜 歌颂了英格兰的历史
Morris's hand-printed designs, with their roses, briars and brambles, celebrate an historic England,
和比亚兹莱的鞭绳曲线有很大区别
a far cry from Beardsley's exotic whiplash curves.
莫里斯受到英国乡村的很大启发
Morris was very much inspired by the English countryside.
他想复兴传统工艺制作方法
He wanted to go back to the way things were done properly, the traditional craft methods.
因为，回归社会信仰后，他感到 在家里增加美丽的事物能提升生活的品质
Because, going back to his social beliefs, he really felt that if you had something beautiful in your home it would influence your quality of life.
现在看来，他有点像香槟社会主义者，是吗
Was he a bit of a champagne socialist, as we might say today?
或者是一个米德社会主义者，和中世纪类似？
Or maybe it's a mead socialist, harking back to medieval times?
从想法上来说，他想为大众提供高品质的产品
In the sense that, he was all about giving beautiful quality products to everybody,
但实践中，除了中产阶级之外没人买得起
but in practise it was only the middle classes who could afford it?
这是矛盾的，莫里斯请最好的人，用最好的材料生产
There is that contradiction with Morris and he had the best people working for him and the best materials that went into making the items.
降低售价的唯一方式是引进大量生产和工厂以及机器
The only way of bringing down the price was to bring in some form of mass production and factories and machines,
而这是莫里斯所反对的
and that was what Morris was against.
他不喜欢工业革命和它为人们生活带来的改变
He disliked the Industrial Revolution and what it was doing to people's lives.
莫里斯的想象力是世纪之交时英国设计的一剂强心针 尤其是在英国南部
Morris's vision was a potent force in British design at the turn of the century, especially in the south of England.
当工艺美术运动的职业伦理、历史主义和新艺术运动的感性曲线相遇时 一些神奇的事情发生了
When the work ethic and historicism of Arts and Crafts met the sensual curves of Art Nouveau, something magical happened.
在艺术史书中你找不到这座奇特的小教堂，它是由玛丽·瓦茨设计的隐藏的珍宝 玛丽·瓦茨是英国新艺术设计的无名女英雄之一
You won't find this extraordinary chapel in art history tomes, but it's a hidden gem created by Mary Watts, one of the unsung heroines of British Art Nouveau design.
它被山毛榉挡住了，躺在萨利山的怀抱中 能听到告诉高速公路的声音，而你绝不会想到它在这里
It's screened by these beech trees and tucked in the crook of a Surrey hill, but you can just hear the motorway, you'd never know it was here.
它就像个维多利也时代的陵墓，为传奇的、古老的阿尔比恩而建
It's like a Victorian mausoleum to the legendary, immemorial figures of Albion.
你总觉得大钟会随时敲响
You half-expect that bell to start tolling at any minute,
似乎这些惊人的、逼真的雕塑会钻出来，回应他们国度的呼唤
and for these incredible, half-true figures to rise up and answer the call of their nation.
在教堂院落里，你能感到英国的沉睡、英国的精神
You get a sense here in this churchyard of the sleep of England, the spirit of England.
在1895年，玛丽和她丈夫一起从英国搬到这里时 她设计了这座非凡的教堂
Mary designed this extraordinary chapel in 1895 when she moved here from London with her husband,
她丈夫是著名的维多利亚画家George Frederick Watts，比她大32岁
the celebrated Victorian painter George Frederick Watts, who was 32 years her senior.
玛丽曾是他的学生
Mary had been his student.
她很崇拜他，尊重而顺从地称他为“gnor”
She idolised him, calling him "signor" as a mark of respect and deference.
在他们婚姻生活的早期，在伦敦有名望的人的交际圈中 玛丽生活在丈夫的阴影之下
For the first years of their marriage she lived in his shadow in the society of London's great and good,
但当这对夫妇搬到康普顿的萨里，在这条路的下方建了一所房子之后 玛丽发现了真正的自我
but when the couple built a house just down the road from here in Compton, Surrey, she really came into her own.
看看小教堂前方的光影斑驳，充满魔力的，迷人的雕带
Look at this lovely sun-dappled, enchanted and enchanting frieze on the front of the chapel.
看看这些英式少女像天使般起身
Look at these very English-looking maidens got up as angels
在负责基督教和英国关于勇气和耐心的经典美德时 她们打起了小小的瞌睡
and it's a light slumber as they preside over classic Christian and British virtues of courage and patience.
但每一处景观都被新艺术图案环绕
But everywhere the scene is enfolded by this riot of Art Nouveau motifs.
它们被曲线包围了
They're enclosed in this thicket of curvy, sinuous lines.
孔雀在炫耀它的羽毛，在它身后像个巨大的锁子甲 还有多节的葡萄藤，突然把端部的箭头全部转向
The peacock is displaying his feathers, a great chain mail behind him, and there are these knotted vines which veer off in all directions, their arrow-headed points.
玛丽是家庭艺术与工业协会的成员之一
Mary was a member of something called the Home Arts and Industries Association
它遵循工艺美术运动的原则：每个人都能学会传统工艺技巧
that was founded on the Arts and Crafts principle that anybody could learn our ancient craft skills.
她每个星期四晚上参加为当地人举办的陶艺课程 以此来完成小教堂的室外装饰，它于1898年完工
She held Thursday evening terracotta classes for the local villagers to make the exterior decorations of the chapel, finally completing them in 1898.
这是一种社会主义的早期形式（如果你喜欢）铺贴粘土
This is an early form of socialism, if you like, set in clay,
虽然玛丽·瓦茨是背后的艺术指导，自己做了大量的工作
because Mary Watts, although she was the guiding artistic brain behind this and did a lot of the work herself,
她也负责领导大众、萨利郡Compton的日常民俗，在过程中手把手地指导他们
was leading the common people, the everyday folk of Compton in Surrey, guiding their hands through the process.
所以你现在看到的，既有工艺美术的感官，也有新艺术的含情脉脉
So what you see here is an Arts and Crafts sensibility but the languishing sensuality of Art Nouveau.
如果你认为建筑外部已经很让人印象深刻了，那么做好准备…
And if you think the outside's impressive, prepare yourself...
这真让人哑口无言，完全超乎想象
This is dumb-striking. It's not what I expected at all.
这就像神仙的洞穴或者秘密基地
It's a kind of fairy grotto or secret cave,
似乎某些奇特的德鲁伊教凯尔特教派进驻了这里 在墙上记录下了他们的历史
as if some strange druid Celtic sect had been walled in here and these were their folk memories that they were implanting on the walls.
同时它又像是疯狂的前卫摇滚版的天堂
At the same time it's like a crazy prog-rock version of heaven.
如果你有全部的早期创世纪的LP，然后你的时间到了 那么这，就是你的“涅槃”，混合乐队
If you had all the early Genesis LPs and your time was up, this is your Nirvana, to mix bands.
看看这些葡萄藤、褶裥和复叶的辉煌爆发
Just this splendid explosion of vines and drapes and fronds.
这些盘绕的植物，也拥有着强大的感官能量
It's also got this great sensuality, these writhing plants.
还能更朴实吗？
What could be more earthy?
它是一个基督教太平间小教堂，但里面却有些异教徒的、超前基督教的东西
It's a Christian mortuary chapel, but there's something almost pagan and pre-Christian about it.
我不确定是否要点根蜡烛，或者染上靛蓝然后裸舞
I don't know whether to light a candle or cover myself in woad and dance naked.
哈罗，Rebecca，你好，我是Stephen
Hello, Rebecca, how are you? I'm Stephen.
到我这边来，这里有点冷，是不？是的
Do come in and join me. It's chilly, isn't it? It is, yes.
很高兴认识你，你带来了什么？
Very nice to meet you. Now, what have you got there?
我带来了我曾祖母的照片。我能看吗？
I've got a photograph of my great-grandmother. May I handle it?
当然，这是你……这是我曾祖母Alice Jacobs
You may, yes. This is my great-grandmother, Alice Jacobs.
那这个一定是玛丽
So that must be Mary?
这是玛丽，小教堂的设计者
That's Mary, the designer of the chapel.
对你来说，这个地方代表了独特的家庭纽带，是吗
So this place has a special family connection for you, doesn't it?
是的，我这一生都经常来这里
It does, yes. I've been coming up here all my life.
因为它是如此独特，还有点与世隔绝
And because it's so extraordinary and a little bit secluded,
似乎你曾祖母才刚刚离去，你有这种感觉吗
it could almost be as if your great-grandmother had just stepped away from here. Do you have that sense?
是的，当然，这些年来一直没变
Absolutely, yes. Definitely. It just hasn't changed over the years.
你来到这里，会觉得你一百年前就来过
You can come in here and definitely feel like you were here 100 years ago.
我喜欢这里
I love it.
我觉得它带给人正能量
And I actually think it's quite life-affirming.
考虑到它是一个停尸间，这很奇怪，不是吗
Which is odd, considering it's a chapel of rest, isn't it?
是的，但我觉得瓦茨不认为死亡是一件坏事
Yes, but I don't think the Watts saw death as a bad thing.
瓦茨把死亡画成一个年轻女人，而不是一个吓人的老态龙钟的巫婆
Watts painted pictures of death as a young woman, not as a scary old crone.
在多年的艰苦劳动后，教堂内部终于在1904年完成 而这一年，她的先生GF·瓦茨去世了
After years of hard work, the chapel interior was finally completed in 1904, the year Signor GF Watts died.
玛丽在接下来的34年没有再嫁 她与当地工匠组建了Compton陶器厂
Mary survived him by another 34 years and went on to establish the Compton Pottery with her local craftsmen.
在当时，这座教堂并不为人所知 但通过这些赤土色的陶器，玛丽独特的新艺术风格走向了更广阔的天地
The chapel was little known in her time, but with these terracotta pots, Mary's unique version of Art Nouveau reached a much wider audience.
通过一个有影响力的家族朋友Arthur Lasenby Liberty的帮助 这里生产的陶器得到了赞美，并走向大众
They were admired and sold to the masses by an influential family friend, Arthur Lasenby Liberty.
Liberty，在19世纪末建立了全球性的百货商场帝国
Liberty, who'd built a global empire of department stores at the end of the 19th Century,
在英式新艺术的工业化和传播中扮演了关键角色
was the key figure in the mass production and spread of this British version of Art Nouveau.
在20世纪初，Liberty已经成为新艺术的代名词
By the beginning of the 20th Century, the very name Liberty had become a byword for the style.
这是Liberty在伦敦西端的百货商店
This is Liberty's department store in the West End of London.
它的砖木结构的都铎风格的外观，试图告诉参观者和顾客 它是典型的英式风格，而且从古至今一直都在
With its half-timbered Tudor-bethan facade, it's managed to persuade tourists and shoppers alike that it's quintessentially English and that it's been here forever.
这两点都是错的
That's wrong on both counts.
Liberty是一个谦逊的仓库经理，1875年从父亲那里贷款开了自己的店
Liberty was a humble warehouse manager when he opened his own shop in 1875 using a loan from his father.
他有着引领文化潮流的本领，迅速变成了艺术爱好者的传播者
With his canny knack for spotting a cultural trend, he became the art lover's retailer.
作为异国装饰艺术的首个引进者 他迅速开始在自己名下售卖英国艺术家的作品
First an importer of exotic decorative arts, he soon began retailing the work of British designers under his own name.
著名的Liberty孔雀印记到今天仍然流行
The famous Liberty peacock print is still popular today.
出售丝绸、衣服、地毯、珠宝和家具，Liberty的帝国版图迅速扩张
Selling silks, clothes, rugs, jewellery and furniture, Liberty's empire quickly expanded.
Anna，我感觉我们像在东部的集市
Anna, it feels as though we're in an Eastern bazaar here.
虽然我们并不是，那我们在哪儿
We're not, though. Where are we?
我们在Liberty的地毯部门
We're in the Liberty carpet department,
但事实上这个部门在1875年创建 对Liberty的东方文化引进者的定位影响很大
but, actually, that's one of the departments that very much reflects Liberty's origins as an oriental importer when he first started in 1875.
Liberty是一个企业家
Liberty was an entrepreneur.
他清楚不能在同一种风格上绑死
He knew that he couldn't stay in the same style.
他需要把生意做大，他是最早出售新艺术风格的商品的人之一
He needed to grow his business, and he was one of the early people to sell products that we would now describe as Art Nouveau.
这本样本书里有什么玄机呢
So what do we have here in your book of swatches?
我们看看
Well, let's have a look and see.
这里有个非常典型的新艺术的Liberty风格
Here we've got a very typical Art Nouveau Liberty style.
这为什么是新艺术
Why is that Art Nouveau?
装饰性的花朵
The stylised flowers.
这是那种…可能看不太出来，但是重复的运动趋势能说明些什么
There is that sort of... You can't quite see it on here, but I know that the repeat has that sort of movement.
著名的波浪线？是的，那非常的有新艺术风格
The famous wavy lines? Yes, which is very Art Nouveau.
它有一种人工印花的感觉，看看是否是人工印制的
And it has that sort of feel of hand block printing, to look as if it's been done by hand.
还有一个，我觉得是很古怪的
We have another one, which is quite weird, I think.
这很独特，从第一眼到最后，它仍然是你说的新艺术吗？
That's quite different, at first sight, to the last one, but this is still Art Nouveau you'd say?
我觉得这仍然是新艺术，它还是那种图形
I think that's still Art Nouveau, and it's still doing that sort of shape.
新艺术的纤维织物，加上工艺美术的手工外观，组成了极致的波西米亚感觉
These Art Nouveau fabrics with their Arts and Crafts handmade look became the pinnacle of bohemian taste.
在Liberty，你可以买到新艺术的裙子、地毯、椅子，甚至花盆
With Liberty, you could have the Art Nouveau dress, the rug, the chairs, even the garden pots.
Liberty确实拥有顶尖的设计师
Liberty actually got all the top designers to design for him.
我觉得这说明他很有魅力，因为他并不支付版权费用
That, I think, shows what a charming person he was because he didn't credit them.
他为设计师发薪水，却并不支付版权费用 因为所有的设计都以Liberty设计的名义出售
He paid them, but he wouldn't have credited them, because he sold his designs as Liberty designs.
他本质上是个商人
He was an entrepreneur.
这对设计师来说有好有坏
That's a mixed blessing for them.
他们得到了报酬，却没有版权，当然历史已经遗忘了他们
They're getting the pay, but not the credit. History has forgotten them, rather.
我不知道这是谁设计的，因为这段历史已经逝去
Well, I have no idea who's designed this, because, yes, that's gone, that history.
对这点你很沮丧？
Which is frustrating for you?
对我来说是非常沮丧，对那些设计师来说一定是更加更加沮丧
Very frustrating for me. It must have been rather frustrating for the person who designed it!
Liberty最重要的无名设计师之一是画家兼教师——阿奇博尔德·诺克斯
One of Liberty's most important anonymous designers was the painter and teacher Archibald Knox.
Patch Rogers，Liberty遗产的守护者，要给我看一些诺克斯的宝物
'Patch Rogers, a guardian of the Liberty legacy, has some Knox treasures to show me.'
你专门请人来看护它？那真是很郑重
And you've brought somebody to look after it? That's very serious.
哈喽，我是Stephen，很高兴认识你。您好。你好吗？好
Hello, I'm Stephen. Very nice to meet you. Hello, sir. How are you? Good.
诺克斯在英国属地曼岛长大，这是爱尔兰海上的一个小岛
'Knox grew up on the Isle of Man, a tiny island in the Irish sea.'
由古老的凯尔特十字架得到灵感，他开始为Liberty设计 新艺术银器和锡蜡器皿,由一个凯尔特式扭曲进行塑造
Inspired by its ancient Celtic crosses, he designed Art Nouveau silver and pewterware for Liberty that was characterised by a Celtic twist.
这个钟怎么样，Patch？
So what about this clock, Patch?
有一种幽默感，是么
It's got a playful quality, hasn't it?
是的，有少许动态的感觉 我认为诺克斯从他的凯尔特出身得到了非常多的灵感
It has. It's got that slightly kind of animated look, I think, and I think Knox was drawing inspiration very much from his Celtic origin.
在英国属地曼岛时，他应该已经从墓地和教堂里学习了凯尔特十字架
Being on the Isle of Man, he would have studied the Celtic crosses in the cemeteries and churchyards
并从中汲取了灵感，我是说，它看起来就像个十字架
and was drawing inspiration from that. I mean, it looks like a cross.
Liberty有敏锐的市场嗅觉，他为这些设计添加了具有历史感的名字 威尔士银器和都铎白蜡
With his marketing nouse, Liberty gave these designs faux historical names - Cymric silver and Tudric pewter.
其他设计师都是合作设计，Liberty发现了诺克斯的才华，与他并肩工作
Other designers worked on the ranges, but Liberty spotted Knox's outstanding talent and worked closely with him.
这是最早的作品，大概是1899年
This is the earliest piece, this is about 1899.
它是非常纯净的银器，却有一个实用的把手，有非常有机的蜿蜒的曲线 这使这个作品带上了新艺术风格的烙印
You have the sort of cleanness of the silver and then you have these applied handles, in a very organic, sinuous line, giving you that very much Art Nouveau feel.
这里还有铆钉，这是展现技巧的一种方式
You also had the rivets, which was a way of showing craftsmanship.
这件银器是手工打造的，但并不是由诺克斯亲手打造
The silver pieces were handmade, but not by Knox himself.
这个由诺克斯设计的白蜡制品，看上去是手工的，但事实上是机器制作的 这违背了工艺美术的原则
The pewter, designed by Knox to mimic the handmade look, were actually machine-made, a crime against Arts and Crafts principles.
但这样一边降低生产成本，一边扩大零售市场，Liberty终能笑对银行账单
But with his lower production costs and a big retail market, Liberty was laughing all the way to the bank.
他是如何出售的呢？通过邮寄订单、目录
How did he market them? Through mail order, catalogues.
当然也通过商店，当时在巴黎有店，在其他地方也有店 我觉得在布宜诺斯艾利斯也有一家店
Obviously through the store, but at the time, you had stores in Paris and other places as well. I think there was one in Buenos Aires.
邮寄订单是不是像当时的互联网营销？当然是的
Right, so the mail order was the internet of its day? Absolutely.
如同目录所写：由Liberty & Co.唯一设计及制作
As the catalogue says, "Designed and worked exclusively by Liberty & Co."
很聪明的做法
Smart.
这一做法非常成功，在意大利，新艺术被称为Stile Liberte
The ranges were so successful that in Italy Art Nouveau became known as Stile Liberte.
当然，诺克斯的事业，向着不同的方向发展了
Knox's career, not surprisingly, took a different course.
他仍然是Liberty家族的朋友，但他退休了
He stayed friends with the Liberty family, but he was a retiring man.
诺克斯在他的一生从未以自己的名字公开发表作品 最后他籍籍无名，回到了英国属地曼岛，画一些水彩画
Never publicly credited for his designs in his lifetime, he ended his days unknown, back on the Isle of Man, painting watercolours.
他的墓碑上写着：阿奇博尔德·诺克斯 艺术家，谦虚的上帝的仆人，位于美的部门
His tombstone reads "Archibald Knox, artist, "humble servant of God in the ministry of the beautiful."
我会敬他一杯
I'll raise a pewter tankard to that.
其他零售商也想从Liberty新艺术的成功中获利
Other retailers wanted to cash in on Liberty's Art Nouveau success.
当Harrods在1902年重新设计时 店家邀请了一位时髦的、年轻的陶瓷工为肉类大厅设计新造型
When Harrods was redesigned in 1902, the owners hired a fashionable young ceramicist to give their meat hall the new look.
他出生在巴恩斯利，接受了成为建筑师的教育
Born in Barnsley and trained as an architect,
威廉·尼特比与道尔顿瓷砖合作，借鉴了他幼时 在北部见到的中世纪教堂，创造了这个非凡的壁缘
William Neatby worked with Doulton's tiles and borrowed from the medieval churches of his Northern childhood to create this extraordinary frieze.
这是一种从未出现过的Arcadian Albion的田园风格 一种可以追溯到中世纪英格兰的19世纪风格
This is a kind of idyllic scene of an Arcadian Albion that never quite was, a 19th-Century view back to medieval England.
它像是哑剧的故事板，因为它有19世纪的风格 故事中的人物穿着就像中世纪的英国人
It's almost like the storyboard for a panto because they have this 19th-century view of how the medieval Briton dressed,
他们穿着紧身上衣和紧身裤，穿着漂亮的精灵靴，戴着可爱的帽子 但他们全是纯洁的、朴实的
its doublet and hose, nice dinky little pixie boots, lovely hats, but they're all spotless and pristine.
你会爱上它的古怪和荒谬
You have to love the whimsy and nonsense of this.
在尼特比的乡村生活的哑剧中，快乐的猎人弹无虚发
In Neatby's panto of rural life, the happy hunter always bags his duck.
尼特比的才华展现在他作品中的图像特质上 它们向环境致敬，而不会显得突兀
Neatby's brilliance lay in the graphic quality of his work which complimented its surroundings rather than competed with them.
尼特比刻意省略了小鹿死亡的恐怖画面 这样我们不会被影响心情，能继续为周末聚会买单
Neatby spares us the horror of Bambi's death scene so we don't have that distasteful thought in our heads as we stand at the counter and pay for the weekend joint.
莫里斯和比亚兹莱一定会在坟墓中窃喜
Morris and Beardsley must be chuckling in their graves.
哪位要鸡肉？
Chicken anyone?
19世纪末很多商场被急速建成
Many shopping arcades were thrown up at the end of the 19th century
于是尼特比的鲜艳的瓷砖组合成为了流行的建筑边角装饰品 成为了一个新兴的购物体验，就像在诺威奇这里一样
and Neatby's colourful ceramic schemes became a popular cutting-edge adornment to the new retail experience, as here in Norwich.
如果你是诺福克的时尚阶层的一员，那么你该来这条拱廊 看看别人，被别人看看，以及撒撒钱
If you were part of Norfolk's fashionable society then this arcade was the place to see and be seen and maybe splash the cash.
你需要什么来证明你的品位，需要一些非常时尚的、让人意外的东西 为什么不试试新艺术风格的织物呢
You wanted something to attest to your taste, to your sense of what was hip and happening so why not pick up Art Nouveau fabrics,
可能是Liberty的一件银器，或是贴着道尔顿最好瓷砖的壁炉 它们正是你需要的
perhaps a nice piece of silverware from Liberty's or maybe even get the fireplace tiled with Doulton's finest ceramics, that was the thing to do.
尼特比是道尔顿制陶部门建筑瓷砖的头头 它的新艺术风格的产品售卖得像烤饼一样火热
Neatby was head of architectural tiles at Doulton's ceramics when its Art Nouveau ranges were selling like hotcakes.
如今它们大部分已被从壁炉和门板上撕下来了 但这条拱廊保存了部分遗产
Most of them have been torn down from fireplaces and doorways now, but this arcade preserves some of that legacy.
现在新艺术具有高度收藏价值，在拍卖会能卖出高价
Today, Art Nouveau remains highly collectable and can secure huge prices at auction.
我来到伦敦中心拜访拍卖商Christie's，他们正在营业
I've come to central London to visit auctioneers Christie's who are putting on a sale.
这里有更多好东西，就算你举起一根银质端头的手杖也买不完
There are more fancy goods in these parts than you can shake a silver-topped cane at.
不奇怪，在这里，古董交易在最华丽、最精细、最精致的地方进行
Small wonder the antiques trade, as practised around here, is at its most luxuriant, its most subtle, its most refined.
你好，Colin
Hello, Colin.
下午好，Smith先生
Good afternoon, Mr Smith.
这里整齐排列着诺克斯的有着凯尔特式新艺术漩涡的作品
Here's a fine range of Knox pieces with their Celtic Art Nouveau swirls.
还有伟大的法国设计师艾米勒·葛莱设计的琉璃
And glass by the great French designer Emile Galle.
新艺术的故事也在苏格兰延续
But the Art Nouveau story also played out in Scotland.
《月亮的银色苹果》，由格拉斯哥风格艺术家玛格丽特·麦当劳在1912年创作
Silver Apples of the Moon by the Glasgow-based artist Margaret MacDonald was created around 1912.
它是被称为“苏格兰-大陆”式新艺术风格的典型作品
It's a example of what's been called "Scotto-continental" Art Nouveau.
很引人瞩目
Catchy.
它很对我的胃口
It's a lot that I personally am passionately in love with.
如果我能把它带回家，我会毫不犹豫地 我爱死它了
If I could take it home I would, I absolutely love it.
你能告诉我这幅作品里的新艺术特性在哪里吗
What can you tell me about the Art Nouveau quality of this work?
很多处，这里表现了自然的美丽以及人与自然的联系
Very much, we have a fascination with nature and the human relationship with nature.
这个女人从浆果，变成鲑鱼，再变成女人，然后消失于自然
The woman metamorphoses from a berry to a trout, to a woman, then dissipates into nature again.
这件作品还有一个潜在的秘密
Also, there's a deep underlying mystery about the work.
我们看到了戴珠宝的少女
But also we have this sense of the bejewelled maiden,
但同时，她也是一个蛇蝎美人，你可以从她瘦骨嶙峋的手看出来
but actually, very much, she's the femme fatale at the same time, which you can pick up in the slightly spooky hands.
事实上让人毛骨悚然
Very spooky actually.
他们骨肉如柴，身材修长，他们的位置也非常… 给人很强烈的感觉。对
They're very skeletal and elongated and just the positioning of them is quite... Quite haunting. Yes.
这很好地解释了为什么这幅画在Christie's的地位如何之高
And there's a good reason why this lot is raising pulses at Christie's.
麦当劳的作品非常特别，当她的作品第一次被拍卖时，它改变了拍卖史
MacDonald's work is actually rather rare and the last time a piece of hers came to sale, it changed auction history.
《白玫瑰和红玫瑰》的估价在£200-300,000
The White Rose and the Red Rose was estimated at between £200-300,000.
拍卖当日，竞价是非常凶猛、激烈的
But actually on the day the bidding war was fierce and very exciting.
整个拍卖厅都屏住了呼吸，最后《白玫瑰和红玫瑰》飙到了1,700,000 这真是非常、非常刺激……
The sale room held its breath and The White Rose And The Red Rose finally realised 1.7 million, which was very, very exciting...
这是非常棒的…世界纪录
That's extraordinary! ..and a world record.
在她的一生，玛格丽特·麦当劳在英国收获的嘲笑远多过欣赏
During her lifetime, Margaret MacDonald was derided in Britain far more than she was appreciated.
她生活在她更有名的丈夫的阴影之下——新艺术建筑师和设计师 查尔斯·雷尼·马金托什
She worked in the shadow of her more famous husband, the Art Nouveau architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
他们于1890年代相识于老格拉斯哥艺术学校，当时他们都正在求学
They met when they were both studying at the old Glasgow School of Art in the 1890s.
加上她的姐姐Frances，姐夫Herbert MacNair，他们组成了“四人组”
Along with her sister, Frances, and her husband, Herbert MacNair, they were known as "The Four".
这是格拉斯哥的Hunterian艺术画廊，在1890年代的紧密合作时期创立
This is the Hunterian Art Gallery in Glasgow - during a period of intense collaboration in the 1890s,
他们四人组设计了这些海报
The Four designed these posters.
这些长的装饰性的线条来自奥博利·比亚兹莱的插画 他们很可能从Studio杂志中学到的
The long, stylised figures were inspired by Aubrey Beardsley illustrations, which they'd seen in The Studio Magazine.
但新闻界带着斧子冲进来，将他们奇怪的新风格称为“幽灵学校”
But the press went in with their hatchets, dubbing their strange new style "the Spook School",
大多数矛头都指向了两位女人：玛格丽特和Frances
and it was the two women, Margaret and Frances, who got most of the stick.
一个学者甚至写了一首关于她们的打油诗
One pundit even wrote a witty verse about them.
你能证明女人的设想“真的”很新潮么 一点也没有从艺术家角度的欺骗
"Would you witness a conception of the woman "really" new "without the least deception from the artist's point of view.
看看Rue de Sauchiehall的艺术学校展览 他们不收取门票，他们没有胆量
"See the Art School exhibition in the Rue de Sauchiehall, "They don't charge you for admission for they haven't got the gall."
玛格丽特和Frances努力找工作 查尔斯和Herbert白天要在当地的建筑公司上班
Margaret and Frances struggled to get work but Charles and Herbert had day jobs with a local firm of architects.
查尔斯开始了使他成名的重要设计——格拉斯哥艺术学校 正如我们今天看到的
Charles started work on the design that would immortalise him - the Glasgow School of Art, as we know it today.
它是马金托什的杰作，是我们称之为“格拉斯哥风格”的巅峰
Mackintosh's masterpiece, and the pinnacle of what we now know as the Glasgow Style.
马金托什，毫无疑义地，成为了这座奇妙的建筑的声誉的唯一拥有者
Mackintosh, quite rightly, takes the sole credit for this astonishing building,
但这种风格的基础早在他与“四人组”的合作时期就已打下
but the groundwork for the style had been laid during his collaboration with The Four.
这里仍旧是日式长窗，还有新艺术的精巧装饰
Here are those long Japanese forms again - and Art Nouveau decorative flourishes,
马金托什将它们拉伸成了苏格兰城堡的比例
but Mackintosh elevates them to the towering scale of a Scottish castle.
这个空间充满戏剧性，有画廊，还有光效
This is such a theatrical space, with the gallery and the lighting effects.
雷尼·马金托什是个真正的建筑戏剧大师
Rennie Mackintosh was a real architectural impresario.
他的声望如此之高，别人只能生活在他的阴影之下
He cast such a shadow it would be difficult for anyone to emerge from it.
玛格丽特从来没有成功地摆脱他的影响
And Margaret never did quite manage to.
他们于1900年结婚后，她与查尔斯的合作进一步加强
After their marriage in 1900, her collaboration with Charles intensified.
他们搬到了一所漂亮的新的乡镇房屋中，并用格拉斯哥风格重新设计了
They moved to a smart new town house which they redesigned in the Glasgow Style.
今天你能在Hunterian艺术画廊中看到这所房子，保存完好 就像这对夫妇才刚刚起床，刚离家去买一些燕麦饼
Today you can find it at the Hunterian Art Gallery, just as if the couple had got up and left it to go out and buy some oatcakes.
回忆一下艺术学校的风格，再看看这个…
Now, remember the art school, and look at this...
漫步在这个私人空间 我感觉就像三只熊出门之后留下的金凤花
Walking through this intimate space I feel like Goldilocks when the three bears were out.
我仍然在期待着马金托什夫妇带着生活用品归来
I keep expecting the Mackintoshes to come back with their groceries.
这对夫妇1906年把这里建成了一个家，同时也把它当做设计风格的展示台
The couple created this as a home in 1906, but also as a showcase for their style.
在椅子和写字台上再次出现了长的日式线条
Here's that long Japonesque shape again in the chairs and the writing desk,
出现了一个新图形——凯尔特玫瑰 它作为格拉斯哥风格的象征，也是这个城市的象征
but now there's a new motif - the Celtic rose that's become an emblem of the Glasgow Style and of the city itself.
这非常淳朴，不是么？既冷静又简洁，还非常的治愈 像有一块漂浮的雪块在窗边堆积起来
It's tremendously pristine, isn't it? And calm and minimalist and rather soothing, as if perhaps a fresh drift of snow was banked up against the windows.
但这里是格拉斯哥，世界最大的工业基地之一
But this was Glasgow, one of the great industrial centres of the world.
在听得到的地方，工厂的汽笛声远去了，蒸汽列车在来回敲打
Within earshot, factory hooters were going off, steam locomotives hammering to and fro,
在Clyde，铆钉被钉进船只的钢壳中，这些船只主宰了整个世界
and on the Clyde, the noise of the rivets being punched into the steel hulls of the ships that dominated the world.
但在这个世外桃源，你绝不会想到外面这些正在进行
But you'd never guess any of that was going on from the sanatorium hush of this space.
对他们来说，这是一个避难所，一个纯洁的、没有污染的地方 在这里，他们能在一起，歌颂他们的爱情
For them, it was a refuge, a spotless, germ-free environment in which they could be together and celebrate their love and,
像所有的情人一样，无视周围的世界，几乎在这里封闭起来
as lovers have done through all eternity, shut out the rest of the world, almost hermetically in this case.
玛格丽特研究金属和纤维织物，我要与Pamela Robertson谈谈 她是画廊的馆长，我要向她打听下壁炉上的嵌板
Margaret worked in metals and fabrics but I've come to talk to Pamela Robertson, curator of the gallery, about the panel above the fireplace.
是不是这块嵌板，在不久之前卖出了两百万英镑的价格？
Isn't this the panel that went for nearly two million quid not so long ago?
厄，事实上不是
Well, actually it's not.
不是？哦，看起来很像，但拍卖的那块是它的复制品
It's not? Oh. It looks very like it, but the one that was at auction is a duplicate version of this one.
这件作品由玛格丽特·麦当劳家族捐献给了大学
This one came to the university through Margaret MacDonald's family.
而另一块，由维也纳收藏家Fritz Waerndorfer获得 由他代代相传，最后出现在了公开拍卖场上
And then the other version, which was owned by a great Viennese collector, Fritz Waerndorfer, and went through his family and then out into the open market,
然后拍出了改写世界纪录的价钱
and that was sold at auction for that world record price.
这块面板呢？
What about this panel?
我指的是，首先，玛格丽特希望我们以这种形式看到它？
I mean, first of all is this how Margaret intended us to see it?
基本上是的
Largely, yes.
它由石膏制作，以石膏为基础，非常易碎 而让人惊讶的是，可以看到它保存得非常完好
I mean it's astonishing, given that it's made of gesso, a sort of plaster-based medium and is very fragile, that we see it pretty much intact.
在她一生中，玛丽的创新的装饰性的面板 对欧洲大陆的新艺术运动产生了巨大影响
'During her lifetime, Mary's innovative decorative panels made a huge impact on continental Art Nouveau.'
《五月女王》，1900年在维也纳展出 震撼了维也纳新艺术运动的金童——古斯塔夫·克林姆
The May Queen, exhibited in Vienna in 1900, impressed the golden boy of Viennese Art Nouveau, Gustav Klimt himself.
他与马金托什夫妇成为了朋友，与玛格丽特关系尤其好
He struck up a friendship with the Mackintoshes, and particularly with Margaret.
无言的眼睛可能说这让我想起克林姆 但艺术的指引其实在另一只脚上，是吗
And the unlettered eye might say this reminds me a lot of Klimt, but actually the artistic boot's on the other foot there really, isn't it?
她影响了他，是吗
I mean she influenced him, is that right?
有很多说法，但可以肯定的是起源于她和马金托什的设计
There was a bit of a dialogue but I think you can certainly say it started with her and Mackintosh's work
当他们在参加第八届维也纳分离派展览，展出大型装饰性石膏楣时
when they both exhibited large-scale decorative gesso friezes in Vienna at the Eighth Vienna Secession Exhibition.
大型壁缘穿过房间彼此呼应的概念，就像这块面板一样 肯定对克林姆产生了深远的影响，并在他之后的展示作品中显现了出来
And that notion of large friezes facing each other across a room, decorative, as this panel is, certainly had a profound influence on Klimt and his later decorative work.
在《五月女王》两年后，克林姆创造了《贝多芬饰带》，他的第一块装饰面板
Two years after The May Queen, Klimt created the Beethoven Frieze, the first of his own decorative panels.
除了她与克林姆这个20世纪新艺术运动的巨人之间的关系外
Despite her connection to Klimt, one of the giants of 20th century Art Nouveau,
在艺术画廊和拍卖之外的英国，玛格丽特·麦当劳仍然没有为大众所认可
Margaret MacDonald is still not widely appreciated in Britain outside the gilded world of art galleries and auctions.
说起这个，今天是Christie's拍卖的日子
Speaking of which, it's the day of the Christie's sale.
玛格丽特·麦当劳·马金托什，《月亮的银色苹果》 要注意这是牛皮纸上的作品，而不是纸
Margaret MacDonald Mackintosh, Silver Apples Of The Moon. I point out that this is on vellum, and not paper.
Lot 68会从三万英镑开价
Lot 68 will open at £30,000...
这对夫妇在格拉斯哥没有得到和欧洲大陆一样的赞誉
The couple never received the recognition in Glasgow that they won on the continent.
查尔斯在家乡得到的最后一个委任是在1906年
Charles' last commission in his home town was in 1906.
他们1914年搬到伦敦，然后搬到法国，但命运没有再垂青他们
They moved to London in 1914 and then to France but their fortunes never looked up.
玛格丽特直到1921年都没有工作 当她去世时，她全部身家只值88英镑
Margaret didn't work after 1921 and when she died her entire estate was worth only £88.
更高的吗？85，没有比你更高的
Any more? At 85, still with you.
9万
90,000.
9.5万
95,000.
9.5万英镑
And selling at £95,000.
还有吗？ 9.5万
No more? 95,000.
成交
It's yours.
时光变换
How times have changed.
玛格丽特·麦当劳1933年去世后，似乎最后的英国新艺术也随她而去 但我们的故事并没有终结
After Margaret MacDonald's death in 1933, it seemed like the last of British Art Nouveau had gone with her, but our story doesn't end there.
这是1966年，披头士，卡纳比大街，嬉皮士
It was 1966, Beatles, Carnaby Street, Flower Power.
你猜猜V&A会为谁献上一场有声望的展览
So who do you suppose the V&A dedicated a prestigious exhibition to?
没有别人，正是这个国家的新艺术先驱：奥博利·比亚兹莱
None other than the pioneer of Art Nouveau in this country, Aubrey Beardsley himself.
正是这样，他被重新看做是时髦的当下的伦敦的标志性人物
That's right. He was reinstated as an icon of trendy, happening London.
维多利亚时代的英国人将比亚兹莱的感性曲线与堕落联系起来
Victorian Britain associated Beardsley's sensuous curves with degeneracy,
但在性解放的60年代，他们为迷幻的漩涡和嬉皮运动欢呼
but in the sexually liberated '60s, they chimed with the swirling psychedelia and with the hippie movement.
Gerald Scarfe，当时还是个孩子 如今是著名的Sunday Times的政治漫画家
Gerald Scarfe, himself a child of those days, is today the celebrated political caricaturist of The Sunday Times.
他认为自己欠比亚兹莱的，这个曾经被中伤的新艺术运动先驱
He acknowledges his own debt to Beardsley, the once defamed pioneer of Art Nouveau.
这个是我为Sunday Times画的斯大林
This one I did for The Sunday Times of Stalin here.
我借鉴了比亚兹莱的非常非常流畅的线条，还有梦幻的色块 正是这些提升了这幅画的品质
I picked up really on Beardsley's ability to have these very, very fine lines and these dramatic blocks of colour which, you know, picks that drawing up.
但这个，我希望，确实有影响，因为他是我那时的想法的一部分
But this, I hope, does have some sort of impact because he was part of my consciousness at that time
人们把我比作比亚兹莱，我很好奇
and people compared me to Beardsley, so I was extra interested and wondered why.
黑色的大量运用，我正是从他那里学来的
So that whack of black I sort of learned from him.
这是很棒的
That was, you know, a good way to do it.
当比亚兹莱1967年再度成为城市的话题
'When Beardsley was the talk of the town again in 1967,
Scarfe接到New Statesman的委托 要求他画一幅关于这个打破常规的插画家的漫画
'Scarfe was commissioned by the New Statesman to create a caricature of the iconoclastic illustrator,
这是一个敏感的观众应该避免看到的（少儿不宜）
and this is where viewers of a sensitive disposition should please avert their eyes.'
用漫画家的风格，需要夸大一切
Well, I mean, in true caricaturist style, I have exaggerated everything.
我放大了比亚兹莱的夸张
I have exaggerated Beardsley's exaggeration.
我认为，这个地方应该会被BBC删除
And I think, you know, that may have to be censored for the BBC.
但我也很确定这需要画在这里
But, I am pretty certain that will have to be, that bit there.
好了，亲爱的奥博利
There we are, darling Aubrey.
当1960年代Scarfe还在学习比亚兹莱时
When Scarfe was in his Beardsley phase in the 1960s,
一对有钱有影响力的夫妇，在这波新艺术的新浪潮的巅峰时 开始了他们自己的收藏
on the crest of this new wave of Art Nouveau, started a collection of their own.
在诺维奇的Sainsbury Centre，工作团队已经准备展示它
At the Sainsbury Centre in Norwich, the team is preparing to put it on show.
这是由Sir Colin Anderson和Lady Anderson从60年代开始 在十年中收集到的
It was collected by Sir Colin Anderson and Lady Anderson over a period of years, starting in the '60s,
当时，同一时代的伟大的新艺术收藏品都聚集到了一起
which classically is when a lot of the contemporary, the great Art Nouveau collections started coming together.
人们对新艺术的激情再燃？
There was a big revival then, of interest?
巨大的复兴浪潮。我认为这源于披头士的歌词
Huge revival. I always think it's based on the Beatles' lyrics.
披头士的很多唱片封面都是新艺术风格
A lot of the Beatles' album covers used Art Nouveau.
这是流行艺术旁的巨大复兴
It was big revival alongside pop art.
在21世纪的初始，这种风格的意义被重新评价
And at the beginning of the 21st century, the significance of the style is being reassessed again.
我认为重点是抢救19世纪的新艺术作品
The main point, I think, in a way, is to rescue Art Nouveau from the 19th century
应该把它看做第一个现代风格 第一个由英国和欧洲设计师自发进行的现代化的尝试
and show it as being the first modern style, the first attempt self-consciously by designers in England and in Europe to make something modern -
现代风格真正是从这些设计师和他们的追求开始的
the modern age really begins with these designers and what they were up to.
现在已经很难想象一个世纪以前 新艺术运动全盛时期是如何大胆和张扬
It's hard to exaggerate now just how bold and ambitious Art Nouveau was in its heyday just over a century ago,
现在社会更加孤立化，时刻提防着全球化和外来事物
when a more insular society was wary of anything too cosmopolitan, too foreign.
新艺术运动是第一个真正的全球化的风格 它是新旧世纪间的桥梁
Art Nouveau was the first truly international style, bridging the old century and the new.
这些天我们明白了，一个设计运动要成功 必须是全球化的，国际化的
These days, we understand that for a design movement to be successful it has to be global, it has to be international,
我们明白了“外来的”“新的”并不是一些坏词
and we recognise that "foreign" and "new" aren't dirty words.
下一站，我将在维也纳
Next time, I'm in Vienna,
这里古斯塔夫·克林姆和一群先锋艺术家赢得了艺术自由 并用一场甜蜜的艺术革命改变了这座城市
where Gustav Klimt and a gang of rebellious artists won their artistic freedom and transformed the city in an art revolution that was sealed with a kiss.