一个最不寻常的方式
它来源于..
这是巴黎,你懂我意思 你有几先令，或是法郎
我们可以回去吗？
我看到你手里有个很有趣的东西
我也是
拉利克怎么办？ 他是怎么看待他生活中的女人的？
是的 是的
令人担忧的是德雷福斯事件 竟然到了这样一个程度
是的
分裂了整个国家
所以，真的，使每个人产生了分歧
你觉得他为什么要说起这个？
真的有很好的作用
加勒使用蝴蝶图标
没错，的确是这样的
赫克托说自然逻辑是无可挑剔的
是的
这是赫克托签约的铁工给新艺术风格
是的
脸为何这么长？
太不可思议了
这里作为居民间相互问候和会面的地方
对不起，先生
19世纪末期
As the 19th century was drawing to a close,
一种豪华新风格席卷欧洲
a luxurious, new style was taking Europe by storm.
这是世纪末一种迷人的颓废的风格
This was the fin de siecle,
但很快又在19世纪就结束了
the glamorous, decadent but also anxious end to the 19th century,
这就是新艺术风格
and the style was Art Nouveau.
别倒满
Merci.
新艺术风格摆脱了黑暗以及工业化城市
Art Nouveau grew out of the dark, restless energies
带来的不安因素
of the industrial city.
在达尔文和弗洛伊德的时代
In the age of Darwin and Freud,
有人痴迷于自然、性感和性
it was fixated with nature, sensuality and sex.
在这十年左右时间
In the space of a decade or so,
新艺术风格变得无所不在
Art Nouveau went from being nowhere to everywhere.
它又被欧洲新兴中产阶级所接受
Lapped up by the burgeoning middle classes of Europe,
它被人们模仿和批量生成
it was mimicked and mass produced.
开始作为一个革命真理，美与自然的定义
What began as a revolution in the name of truth, beauty and nature,
最后在嘲笑，颓废和腐朽中结束
ended in derision, decadence and decay.
在这系列中，我们将游览欧洲伟大的城市
In this series, I'll be visiting the great cities of Europe,
像埃米尔加勒这样有远见的工作
where the work of visionaries like Emile Galle,
克林姆这样的艺术家和企业家阿瑟
artists like Gustav Klimt and entrepreneurs like Arthur Liberty
坚持的时间都太短
blossomed all too briefly.
=================== =================== after army no.10 ★★★ 记录片之家倾情奉献http://www.jlpzj.net/ 本字幕仅供学习交流，严禁用于商业用途 翻译/时间轴：吉吉 ★★★
★★★ High.Definition.720p ★★★ 性与情：新艺术的魅力之巴黎
19世纪末的巴黎
Paris at the end of the 19th century
人们喜欢很直的林荫大道
loved its bullet-straight boulevards,
雄伟的古迹和古典风格的建筑
its imposing monuments and classically inspired architecture.
但这壮观过头了，人口从开始的
But beyond the grandeur, the population had exploded
50万到1900年的250万爆炸性增长
from half a million to 2.5 million people by 1900.
这些优雅的林荫大道被车和人群
Those elegant boulevards were gridlocked with horses,
围的水泄不通了
carriages and crowds.
这需要改变
Things needed to change.
城市规划者想出了一个激进的解决方案
The city planners came up with a radical solution.
乐新城，女士们，先生们！
Le Metro, ladies and gentlemen!
典型的巴黎和典型的新艺术风格
Typically Paris, typically Art Nouveau.
巴黎的市民被震惊了
The good citizens of Paris were shocked.
蝙蝠翅膀一样的入口
Entrances like bat wings,
蜿蜒的金属和感性的曲线
sinuous metals, sensuous curves.
这是新世纪新艺术的一个大胆宣告
It was a bold declaration of the new art for the new century.
第一个地铁入口的出现就在
The first Metro entrances appeared just in time
巴黎举行大规模庆祝的活动的时候
for a massive celebration in Paris,
1900年世博会
the World Fair of 1900.
那时是城市显示它尖端风格的时候
It was when the city would show off its cutting-edge new style.
在博览会中心地带有两幢巨大高楼
At the heart of the fair were two huge buildings,
大皇宫和小皇宫，面对面矗立着
standing opposite each other, the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais.
这是大皇宫，是不是很精致？
This is Le Grand Palais. It's exquisite, isn't it?
很漂亮，很坚固
It's beautiful, substantial,
最大和最好的展览地方之一
one of the biggest and best exhibition spaces
你在世界任何地方都会看到 但从来没想到过巴黎
you'll find anywhere in the world, never mind Paris.
你会爱上它的
You'd love it.
不幸的是，我不是去那里的
Unfortunately, I'm not going there.
我要去小皇宫，那边的小地方
I'm going to Le Petit Palais, the small palace over here.
也许他们在向他们的外国游客吹嘘
Perhaps they were boasting to their foreign visitors.
在法国，它一共占地16000平方米
"In France, this, all 16,000 square metres of it,
就是我们所说的小
"is what we call small."
你好，Chazal先生（法语） 叫我斯蒂芬吧（法语）
Bonjour. Monsieur Chazal, je m'appelle Stephen.
你好，先生
Merci, monsieur.
吉尔先生是小皇宫的主管
'Gilles Chazal is director of the Petit Palais.'
可以给我关于在巴黎规模庞大展览的建议吗
Can you give me some idea of the sheer size of the exhibition
这是不是一次伟大的大事件？
in terms of Paris? It was a great, big event, wasn't it?
这是一个国际性的展览
It was an international exhibition.
当然这是一个非常，非常著名的事件
It was of course a very, very famous event.
它是从这个地方到香格里拉旅游 艾菲尔...艾菲尔铁塔
It was from this place to La Tour Eiffel... To the Eiffel Tower.
是的，是和沿塞纳河
Yes, yes and along the River Seine.
这绝对令人难以置信 真的是一个探索
It was absolutely incredible and it was a discovery for the public,
要照顾艺术品，机器发动机等等
to look after artworks, but also engines and so on.
此外，它是一个世纪性的变化 所以这是个非常伟大的时刻
Also, it was a change of century, so it was a very great moment.
旨在展示最好的现代艺术和产业
Designed to showcase the very best of modern art and industry,
世界博览会是法国20世纪的宣言
the World Fair was France's manifesto for the 20th century.
有自动步道和盛大的电力厅
There were moving walkways and a grand electricity hall.
60多个国家展出，有50万人参观
Over 60 countries exhibited and 50 million people visited.
这是一次所有国家的聚会
It was the party to end all parties,
新艺术风格是荣誉宾客
and Art Nouveau was the guest of honour.
在城市周边，有勒内·拉利克戏剧性的珠宝首饰
Around the city, the dramatic jewellery of Rene Lalique,
埃米尔·加勒的有机玻璃
the organic forms of Emile Galle's glass
穆夏(1860-1939)诱人的蛇蝎美人
and the alluring femme fatales of Alfonse Mucha
眼花缭乱的巴黎观众
dazzled the Paris crowds.
大理石和马赛克和镀金，玻璃
With all its marble and mosaics and gilt and glass,
这是一个华丽且豪华的陈列室艺术风格
this was an opulent luxury showroom for Art Nouveau,
但它远不止于此
but it was much more than that.
还展出了一个使人迷惑的镜子 给法国人希望和恐惧
It also held up a dazzling mirror to French hopes and fears
在19与20世纪之交
at the turn of the 20th century.
巴黎是人满为患，很肮脏
Paris was overcrowded, filthy
反犹主义的紧张关系暗流涌动
and simmering with anti-Semitic tensions.
在世界博览会上，新艺术风格有很高的欢迎度
At the World Fair, Art Nouveau was at the height of its popularity,
此刻，它就像是现代丑陋世界的
and for a brief moment it seemed like an antidote
一种解毒剂
to the ugliness of the modern age.
但在20世纪初期，这个新贵的新风格
But on the cusp of the 20th century, how did this upstart new style
是如何威胁到传统法国设计的地位的呢？
threaten to upstage the conservative ranks of traditional French design?
在1900世博会前5年
It was only five years before the 1900 World Fair
新艺术运动开始出现在
that Art Nouveau had begun to emerge
四分之一放荡不羁的城市
from the licentious bohemian quarter of the city.
1895年，蒙马特
In 1895, Montmartre,
是法国首都边缘的一个活动场所
the playground on the edge of the French capital,
已成为吸引艺术家
had become a magnet for artists
寻找灵感和刺激的地方
looking for inspiration and excitement.
德加和图卢兹画了一幅 当地妓女和舞蹈家的画
Degas and Toulouse Lautrec painted the local prostitutes and dancers,
她们成了城市性自由的标志
and they became emblems of the city's sexual freedom.
颓废、放荡、毒品、醉酒
Decadent, licentious, drug-fuelled, absinthe-soaked -
有下降的趋势，当然
there was a downside, as well, of course,
在蒙马特，这是艺术家的一天
but it was here in Montmartre that the artists of the day,
前卫艺术家会赢得他们的荣誉
the avant-garde artists earned their stripes.
所有艺术家们有新艺术风格
Of all the artists who set the scene for Art Nouveau,
波德莱尔的最具颠覆性
Charles Baudelaire was the most subversive.
在1857年，他的第一册诗歌《恶之花》
In 1857 he shocked Paris to its breeches
震惊了巴黎
with his first volume of poetry, Les Fleurs Du Mal.
这一切真的都刊登在报纸上
It's all there in the title, really, isn't it?
恶之花
The Flowers Of Evil.
他着迷大自然黑暗的一面...
He was fascinated by the dark side of nature...
..和人性
..and human nature.
性，死亡，吸血鬼，女同性恋
Sex, death, vampires, lesbians,
与此同时，安东尼·特罗洛普
and all this at the same time as Anthony Trollope
正编写《Barchester Towers》
was writing Barchester Towers.
这是背街饮水，把巴黎的秩序都弄乱了
It was in the back-street drinking dens and hash joints of Paris
波德莱尔对自然和艺术的想法
that Baudelaire's ideas about nature and art
被新艺术派设计师流传下来了
were handed down to Art Nouveau designers.
路易丝，波德莱尔大自然是什么？ 能告诉我们吗？
Louise, what is Baudelaire telling us about nature?
他包含了所有人工制造的
He embraces all that's artificial, you know,
他自夸人工制造优点超越了大自然
he vaunts the merit of artificiality over nature,
这是颓废的开端
and that's the beginnings of decadentism, if you like,
反对自然主义和它的价值
a rejection of naturalism and of its values.
因为科学和工业给了我们这么多
Is that because science and industry was giving us so much,
假如适合我们,有一天我们能否调整自然呢？
one day we could tweak nature if it suited us?
是的，希望能改善自然
Yeah, there's a desire to improve on nature.
这工作要慢慢来
To take it, to work on it,
做一些更好的，与众不同的东西
and to do something better and something different.
这会导致我们变得颓废 也把我们带入新艺术主义
And this leads us into decadence, it leads us into Art Nouveau.
来自巴黎夜间世界的舞者和表演者
The dancers and performers from Paris' nocturnal world
体现了这些危险的想法
embodied these dangerous new ideas.
像飞蛾扑火，新艺术派设计师 被这些妇女所吸引
Like moths to a flame, Art Nouveau designers were drawn to these women.
神圣的莎拉伯恩哈特是最疯狂的
And none was more nocturnal than the divine Sarah Bernhardt.
她是新艺术运动的最终缪斯 （古希腊神话中科学、艺术女神的总称）
She was Art Nouveau's ultimate muse.
伯恩哈特像庆祝别人一样庆祝自己
Bernhardt was celebrated as the greatest actress of her day,
她是最伟大的演员
as much by herself as anyone else.
放荡不羁几乎已经成了她的专利了
The word bohemian could almost have been invented for her.
在她许多情人中 欧洲各国郡主也在其中
Amongst her many lovers she counted crowned heads of Europe.
据说她都睡过棺材
It's even said she slept in a coffin,
相信这种死地玩法可能会提高她的悲剧色彩
believing that playing dead might improve her tragic roles.
波德莱尔为她而感到骄傲.
Baudelaire would have been proud of her.
看看在莎拉，手拿扇子，躺在她的睡椅上
Just look at Sarah there, reclining on her chaise longue with her fan,
恳求的眼神，不，是要求
her eyes imploring, no, demanding,
你给了她你对她的充分重视
that you give her your full attention.
她脚趾上的狗代表了时髦的巴黎社会
And that dog at her feet represents fashionable Parisian society,
作家，诗人，艺术家 莎拉对他们来说，是一个缪斯
writers, poets, artists for whom Sarah was a muse.
仔细看看菲多的眼睛
But look deep into Fido's eyes.
我想他看到了闺房里
I think he's seen things in the boudoir
没有妇女的踪迹
no animal should be exposed to.
莎拉想玩一种能登上巴黎的舞台
Sarah was about to play a new role
新的艺术风格
in the Paris debut of Art Nouveau.
1894年圣诞节
It was Christmas Day 1894.
莎拉需要她新戏《Gismonda》一个宣传海报
Sarah needed a poster to advertise her new play, Gismonda.
但向谁求助？
But who to turn to?
Alfonse Mucha是摩拉维亚的艺术家
Alfonse Mucha was a Moravian artist
他用他的方式穿越欧洲来巴黎学习艺术
who'd worked his way across Europe to study art in Paris.
他真的想成为一名真正艺术家 而不是商业艺术家
He really wanted to be a fine artist, not a commercial one,
但他的日子上顿不接下顿
but he was living hand to mouth.
于是他开始创作《Gismonda》海报
Then he was approached to create the Gismonda poster.
他暂时搁置了他的野心并开始这项工作
He put his ambitions on hold and got to work.
这成了穆夏以后的生活
This is Mucha later in life,
现在，他的孙子约翰和 约翰妻子莎拉
but today it's his grandson John and John's wife Sarah
占用了他故事
who take up the story.
新艺术运动的第一张海报
The first poster of Art Nouveau.
这是穆夏为伯恩哈特所做的第一张海报
Well, it's the first poster that Mucha did for Sarah Bernhardt, yes.
这是间接地第一步
This is indirectly the first step
实际上，使艺术成为大众化
to actually make art available to the general public,
你不在富有
you no longer have to be rich.
它的由来呢？
How did it come about?
It came about
因为在那时，穆夏是
because what happened was that Mucha,
in a most extraordinary way,
一位很努力的艺术家
who was a struggling artist at the time,
他帮助了他的一位朋友
was doing a favour for a friend,
纠正了一些打印机上的问题
he was correcting some proofs at the printers,
圣诞节时候每人都放假了
and it was at Christmas time so everybody else was off on holiday,
突然打印机负责人冲进来
and suddenly the manager of the printers came rushing in.
莎拉·伯恩哈特说她有一个新的海报
Sarah Bernhardt had said she had to have a new poster
在新年里要重新宣传下《Gismonda》
for her re-presentation of Gismonda in the new year
她想现在就宣传
and she wanted it now.
没人来询问，结果穆夏受到了请求
So there was no-one else to ask, so Mucha got the ask.
印刷工去度假了,假期回来后
So the printer went on holiday, came back from holiday
问海报在哪里
and said "Where's the poster?"
穆夏就提起这件事，印刷工大吃一惊
And Alphonse presented this and the printer had a fit.
为什么他会大吃一惊，约翰？
Why did he have a fit, John?
他从未见过这种事,真没见过
He'd never seen anything like this, nothing.
莎拉·伯恩哈特想看看海报
Sarah Bernhardt wanted to see it, so it was rolled up
印刷工就带着卷着的海报给了伯恩哈特
and the printer took it to Sarah Bernhardt.
穆夏很沮丧，因为...
Alphonse was depressed because, you know,
他觉得他犯了个很严重的错误
he thought he'd made a terrible mistake.
几乎同时，收到了伯恩哈特的一条信息
Almost immediately, a message came back from Sarah Bernhardt
她想见见穆夏，所以他带着沉重的心情
that she wanted to see Mucha, so he went to her boudoir,
去了伯恩哈特的房间
with a very heavy heart,
他想他会受到怒斥
because he thought he was going to get a bollocking,
这是穆夏自己想法，但历史的事实是
and this is in Alphonse's own words, I mean, true historical fact,
伯恩哈特站起来拥抱了他，并说
she got up, embraced him and said,
穆夏先生，你将使我成为流芳百世的人物
"Mr Mucha, you have made me immortal."
你知道，她已经50岁了
You know, she might have been in her 50s
已经经历了各种各样的事了 但在舞台上
and have done all sorts of things, but when she was on stage,
她是位纯洁又有远见的女人
she was this woman with a vision, with a purity in her heart.
穆夏所做的事情就是他想知道
What Mucha did was that he saw Sarah Bernhardt
伯恩哈特是怎样看待他的
and he made her look the way she felt and wanted to be seen.
他想与她交流的什么
And that's what he's communicating,
取决于她是如何看待自己
is who she saw herself as.
于是，她立即与穆夏签了一份6年的合同
Then she immediately signed him up for a six-year contract.
这就像闪电从蔚蓝天空闪过一样
This was like a lightning from blue sky.
穆夏的《Gismonda》戏剧此刻引起了人们注意
Mucha's Gismonda captured the moment.
新女主角诞生了
The nouvelle woman was born.
他设计了神圣的莎拉式鲜花
He crowns the divine Sarah with stylised flowers.
用苍白的柔和色调替代了原色
Using pale muted shades rather than bold primary colours,
他使海报有革命性改变
he revolutionised poster design.
1895年1月1日，海报在巴黎街头
The poster appeared on the 1st January 1895
第一次出现
on the streets of Paris.
从一开始就引起了轰动
It caused a sensation from the get-go.
在法国首都巴黎，这是首次公开
This was the first public declaration of the new art
宣布新的艺术诞生
in the French capital.
市民狂风骤雨般都去看这海报
The public went wild for the poster.
《Gismonda》戏剧很快被人们接受 哈恩波特又一次被人们记住了
As quickly as Gismonda was put up, she was taken down again.
单子很快随之而来，同时贿赂她的也不少
Bill stickers were followed and bribed to hand her over.
穆夏也一夜成名
Mucha became an overnight success.
他搬到了一个华丽的新工作室
He moved to a swanky new studio,
那里他可以体验新摄影艺术
where he experimented with the new art of photography.
他把这精美系列的照片作为他的典范
And he took this wonderful series of photographs of his models.
他摄影中女人们绝对没穿胸衣，是吗？
His new women have definitely burnt their corsets, haven't they?
她们盯着你看，肯定为自己的身体感到自豪
They stare back at you, brazen and proud of their bodies.
他创作了这本书-《装饰文档》 （1902年出版，写给手工艺人的手册）
He produced this book, Documents Decoratifs,
这手册成了穆夏风格，甚至延伸到了 法国和欧洲各地
a bible which later spread Mucha's style around France and Europe.
比起伯恩哈特的图片，这些来的更直接
Well, these are a bit more candid than those Sarah Bernhardt pictures.
它们真的很美很生动，肯定领先于同时代的作品
They're beautiful, graphically ahead of their time,
同时我想说的是19世纪90年代相当地淫猥
and also, I suppose one has to say, quite risque for the 1890s.
一些女孩也很娴静
Some of these girls are very demure,
她们似与野生动物一起生活过 与它们一起被画
they seem to merge with the wildlife they're pictured alongside,
都是精英，但是其她人，像这个 我敢说，贱妇就在这里
the flowers, but others, like this, dare I say it, hussy here,
肯定地,“进花园来，克劳德”
definitely have a bit of "come into the garden, Claude," about them.
我的母亲可能会说有点开放
What my mother might have called a bit forward.
香槟
Champagne,
香烟
cigarettes,
穆夏发现性可以出卖你任何东西
Mucha discovered that sex could sell anything.
甚至可以卖掉新开发的里维埃拉度假胜地
It could even sell holidays on the newly-developed Riviera.
而卖点是女人
And the selling point was the nouvelle woman,
新艺术风格的标志
the icon of Art Nouveau.
不断壮大中产阶级学习爱花钱
The growing middle class was learning to love spending its money
无论是在酒吧和餐馆
in bars and restaurants
新百货公司 如雨后春笋已随处可见
and the new department stores that were springing up everywhere.
就是花钱，花钱，花钱
It was spend, spend, spend.
市场上有大量的新产品
There was a plethora of new products on the market,
每个都需要广告来做宣传
and every one of them needed to be advertised.
在大众广告的新时代 大量生产
In the new age of mass advertising, mass production
和大量消费， 新艺术运动本身 就是批量生产
and mass consumption, Art Nouveau was itself mass produced.
穆夏的新艺术风格很流行， 很奇特，又令人敬畏
Mucha made Art Nouveau de rigueur, fantastique, formidable.
哇...我的上帝！（法语）
Wow, or even, mon dieu!
这地方怎样？
What about this place?
1895年,乔治继承了
When Georges Fouquet inherited
他父亲的独家珠宝业
his father's exclusive jewellery business in 1895,
他需要借助穆夏的能力
he wanted some of that Mucha magic.
他俩就开始设计珠宝
He started designing jewellery with him,
委托穆夏创建一个店
and commissioned Mucha to create a shop
那样会放纵他的客户对 新艺术风格的奢华味道
that would indulge his clients' taste for Art Nouveau luxury.
Can we go back in time?
It's Paris, you're a man of means, you've got a few bob, or francs,
你想给你生活中特殊的人留下深刻的印象
and you want to impress that special person in your life.
这是你来的地方，就是这个珠宝店
Well, this is where you come, this jewellery shop,
这一小块宝石是用在特殊场合
for that piece, that rock, for a special occasion.
可能是生日，情人节，或是周年日
Maybe a birthday, a Valentine, an anniversary.
但是在过去几十年，店铺分的很明确
But over the decades, what is quite clear
珠宝店，就是真正的宝石
is that the shop itself, the jewellery shop, is the true gem.
这是上帝赐予的礼物
It's the gift that goes on giving.
在这家店，穆夏使用充满艺术风格的调色板
In this shop, Mucha used the full Art Nouveau palette,
受自然世界曲线的启发
curves inspired by the natural world,
羽毛，镀金，服饰
feathers, gilt, finery.
每寸都有装饰性和感性的存在
Every inch of it decorative and sensual.
性和新艺术风格是相通的 但又是复杂的同床异梦
Sex and Art Nouveau were intimate, promiscuous bedfellows.
看看这里的风姿
Look at the figure up here.
起初，认为是一个美丽很经典的姿势 但后来注意到
A beautiful, almost classical pose at first, but then notice,
她的手臂放在脑后，强调她灿烂的半身像
her arms are behind her head, emphasising her splendid bust,
甚至有个现代发型
and even a modern haircut.
她是蛇蝎美人 新艺术风格的经典象征
She is the femme fatale, a classic symbol of Art Nouveau.
想象下你面前呈现了一位 带胸针的蛇蝎美人乔治富凯 （新艺术运动首饰设计的重量级人物）
And imagine presenting your femme fatale with this Fouquet brooch.
现在，放个微笑在她脸上
Now, that would put a smile on her face.
在早期，新艺术运动城市中仍留着
In its early days, Art Nouveau was still the preserve
很多波希米亚精英
of the rich bohemian elite of the city.
在他们之中，他是位雄心勃勃 且很有才华的年轻设计师
Amongst them was an ambitious and talented young designer
他有自己的风格，改变了珠宝设计行业
who would embrace the new style and revolutionise jewellery design.
19世纪70年代，当伟大的珠宝商勒内·拉利克
When the great society jeweller Rene Lalique
开始他在巴黎的职业生涯时
was beginning his career in Paris in the 1870s,
还没有珠宝设计
jewellery wasn't about design.
所有的都是有关装饰和宝石
It was all about the bling, about the rocks.
没有任何宝石是钻石
And not just any rocks - diamonds.
在巴黎，钻石的名声跟里兹大饭店一样大
Diamonds as big as the Ritz in Paris.
是拉利克改变这一切
Lalique changed all that.
今天，他可能更了解他的玻璃设计
He's probably better known today for his glass designs,
他受训成为一名金匠
but he trained as a goldsmith
并建立了他的声誉开拓新艺术风格的珠宝首饰
and built his reputation on his pioneering Art Nouveau jewellery.
这些天来，你得去博物馆 看看他的珍贵作品
These days, you have to go to museums to see his precious pieces.
这是Philippe Thiebault 奥赛博物馆的首席馆长
'Philippe Thiebault is curator in chief at the Musee d'Orsay,
他有拉利克珠宝盒的钥匙
'and he has the key to the Lalique jewel box.'
你好Philippe,我是Stephen. 很高兴认识你
Hello, Philippe, I'm Stephen. Nice to meet you.
Very nice to meet you.
I see you have an interesting object in your hand.
在拉利克宝盒以前, 价值连成的 首饰是由工匠制作的
'Before Lalique, valuable jewellery was produced by artisans
它们从贵重金属和宝石中提取出来的
'from precious metals and gemstones.
岩石越大，就会有更多有价值的东西可取
'The bigger the rocks, the more desirable and valuable the piece.
拉利克把注意力都放在它的头上
'Lalique turned all that on its head.'
所以这一块是拉利克饰品 这是一个发夹角
So it's a piece by Lalique, it's a hairpin in horn.
角？所以说它很便宜...
Horn? So that's cheap...
非常非常便宜
It's very, very cheap,
这是特有的拉利可艺术
and it's a characteristic of the art of Lalique,
因为拉利克不是很喜欢昂贵的材料
because Lalique was not very fond of expensive material.
当他选择材料时，不考虑材料的价格
When he chose materials, it was not for the price of the material,
看要看颜色和材料的质地
but for the colour, the texture of the material.
所以对拉利克来说，它不是珠宝中的宝石
So with Lalique, it wasn't the gemstones in the jewellery,
这是一种设计，增加它的价值
it was the design, that's what added the value.
是的，没错，这是很自然的一块
Yes, yes. It's a very naturalistic piece, you know.
这是雕刻模仿，纯属建议
It is engraved to imitate, to suggest, the angelica.
它是一种植物
It's a plant, you know.
在这里你只有很少的钻石
And here you have little diamonds
建议把阳光反射到植物上
to suggest the reflections of the sun on the plant.
好的，这是一块很可爱的钻石
Right. It's a very lovely piece.
一位绅士从拉利克那里买了它
And the gentleman who bought this from Lalique,
他是买给他妻子的嘛？
he would be buying this for his wife?
应该不是，这是巴黎！
Maybe not, maybe not. Well, this is Paris.
许多男人去拉利克那里
Many men went to Lalique,
为女士求一块宝石
and they asked for jewels for a lady.
"你能为我特别朋友做件事嘛," 那种事?
"Can you make something for my special friend," that kind of thing?
Yes, yes.
What about Lalique, how did he feel about women himself?
拉利克，我觉得...
Lalique, I think...
我们知道，在拉利克生命中和 许多妇女做爱
We know that Lalique did love many women during his life,
在巴黎和伦敦有很多情妇，都可以随处可见
had many mistresses in Paris and London, everywhere,
这就是为何他是一位很好的珠宝 设计师的原因
and it's the reason why he is a good designer of jewels,
因为我觉得他爱上了许多女人
because I think he loved very much women.
他的一些作品是色情的
Some of his pieces are erotic.
我们有个盒子，在盒子中间你会 看到一个裸体女人
We have a box, and you will see at the centre, a naked woman,
她敞开着她的外衣
and she opens her cloak...
她的外衣？是的
Her cloak? Yes.
在她周围，也有年轻人，也是赤裸裸的
And so around her, you have young men, also naked.
他们完全被裸体冲昏了头脑
They are completely dazzled by the nudity.
他们是什么人？完全被她屈服了 震惊，激动不已
Are they? They're falling away, the shock, thrilled.
它就像个女神
It's like a goddess, you know.
她像只蝴蝶或这说是蝙蝠
She is like a butterfly, or maybe like a bat.
因为蝙蝠和蝴蝶非常被
Because bats and butterflies were very appreciated
新艺术运动的艺术家所欣赏
by the artists of Art Nouveau.
拉利克为妇女创造了戏剧性的珠宝
Lalique created dramatic jewellery about women, for women.
他的世界就像新艺术风格一样 是一个没有男人的世界
His world, like so much of Art Nouveau, is a no-man's land,
女人至高无上
where the woman reigns supreme.
拉力克的魅力是与众不同的
Lalique's fascination with natural forms of all kinds wasn't unusual.
收集和性质分类的时间是他 最痴迷的时候
Collecting and categorising nature was the great obsession of the time.
为了研究昆虫的特征 拉力克来到了Deyrolle商店 （巴黎现存最悠久的动物标本录制店）
To study insects close-up, Lalique came here to Deyrolle,
它在巴黎圣日耳曼区，柜子很特别
the cabinet of curiosities, in the St Germain district of Paris.
这个特别的动物寓言集 是个真正的奖杯柜
This extraordinary bestiary is really a trophy cabinet
对19世纪后期发生的事的记载
of what was going on in the late 19th century.
在他国际旅行中发生了一次巨变
There was an explosion in international travel,
当时他在植物收集，标本制作
in collecting, in taxidermy, in botany.
就把这种材料带回家了 结果被绅士们放在他们的赃物袋里了
This kind of stuff was brought home by gentlemen in their swag bags.
在19世纪中叶
In the middle of the 19th century,
达尔文创作了的新理论--进化论
Darwin's radical new theories about evolution
自然世界人类居住地方
and man's place in the natural world
爆炸既定的信念
exploded established beliefs.
自然界是残酷的 它有红色的牙齿和爪子
Nature, savage nature, red in tooth and claw.
这是宗教和其它科学之间一场
This was a new battleground between religion on the one hand
新的战场
and science on the other.
对设计师而言，这是一个现代的徽章
For designers, it was a badge of modernity,
认识世界的一种新方式
a new way of understanding the world.
他们把种类带到了巴黎
They brought nature into Paris.
但他们这么做要面对新的条款
But they did so on new terms.
对于像拉利克这样的设计师，自然要加以点缀
For designers like Lalique, nature was there to be embellished.
百合在那里是镀金的
The lily was there to be gilded.
成群的昆虫，云蝶类，鸟类，蝙蝠
Swarms of insects, clouds of butterflies, birds, bats,
它们的嗡嗡声和拍打声 围绕着拉力克的工作
they all buzzed and flapped around Lalique's work.
事实上，如果不是所有的都看起来十分美丽
In fact, if it hadn't all looked so beautiful,
它可能像希区柯克电影 （希区柯克，1889-1980，电影导演）
it might have been like a Hitchcock film.
这是一种变态艺术
This is the art of metamorphosis.
在稀奇古怪和神奇的方法下
鸟类，昆虫和妇女溶于彼此
Birds, insects and women dissolve in and out of each other
in weird and wonderful ways.
大自然感性，但险恶
Nature's sensuous, but sinister.
蓝色天空,有个大黄蜂
It's blue skies and bumblebees one minute,
后面的蝙蝠在睡觉
and bats at bed-time the next.
拉力克可能使用廉价的材料
Lalique may have used cheap materials,
但他的珠宝是奢华和戏剧性的
but his jewellery was lavish and dramatic -
巴黎夜间世界
perfectly designed for the dim electric lights
昏暗灯光的完美设计
of Paris' nocturnal world.
这是世界著名的马克西姆餐厅
This is the world-famous restaurant Maxim's.
莎拉·伯恩哈特和文人们
Sarah Bernhardt and the literary crowd
直到凌晨还在这里聚会
partied here till the early hours.
企业家-Eugene Cornuche 重新设计了新艺术风格
Entrepreneur Eugene Cornuche redesigned it in Art Nouveau style
在1899的世界博览会上
in 1899 for the World Fair.
他知道在新艺术运动中 著名艺术家和妓女
He knew that Art Nouveau, famous artists
可以把他的投资变成黄金
and a ready supply of courtesans could turn his investment into gold.
今天，有一种在高档妓院的感觉
Today it has the feel of an upmarket bordello.
他们说来这里的每个男人 身边都会有一位女人
They say every man who came here arrived with a woman,
但从来不会是他的老婆
but it was never his wife.
你几乎可以听到小提琴的飙升声
You can practically hear the violins soaring away,
蓬勃的笑声和政客的八卦消息
the booming laughter and gossip of the politicians
艺术家、演员和画家会来这里
and the artists and actors and painters who came here,
还有他们的新缪斯 或妓女清脆的笑声
and the tinkling laughter of their new muses or courtesans.
太感谢你了，皮埃尔·安德烈让我看到马克西姆餐厅
Pierre Andre, thank you so much for letting me see Maxim's.
在这个不可思议的地方不用客气啦
You are very welcome in this incredible place.
太不可思议了,是吗？是的
It is incredible, isn't it? It is.
螺旋楼梯有它的
With its mirrors and gilt,
镜像和镀金
the spiral staircase.
这是法国“美丽年代”的的象征 （美丽年代，19世纪末20世纪初，一个非常重要的时间段）
It is a symbol of what we call in France La Belle Epoque.
从那个时候开始
It really represents
它真正代表了
such a dream in people's minds
人们心中的梦想
that it stays from that time,
至今仍是相同的
and it's still today the same.
马克西姆的新艺术运动
Maxim's was Art Nouveau.
是否有种不寻常的感觉？
Is there a sense that the normal rules didn't apply?
一旦你跨入马克西姆餐厅的... 绝对是的
Once you stepped over the doorway of Maxim's... Absolutely.
唯一正确之处是它的
The only rules correct in such a place
优雅和魅力
was elegance and glamour.
在马克西姆餐厅，有许多像普鲁斯特那样的
In Maxim's, many times we had writers, novelists...
作家，小说家... 他也来这里吗？
Like Marcel Proust, did he come here?
当然，他来了很多很多次 那莎拉·伯恩哈特呢？
Of course, he came many, many, many times. Sarah Bernhardt?
莎拉·伯恩哈特 是我们最好的客户之一
And Sarah Bernhardt, who was one of our best clients.
这是个真正你必须来看看的的地方
It was really the place where you had to come to see and be seen.
它准确揭示了那个时期所有的审美观
It showed exactly all the taste they had at that period,
和我们周围最好的新艺术风格
and the best was all around Art Nouveau.
马克西姆感性的曲线
Maxim's sensuous curves
和伊甸园的妇女们
and women in their gardens of Eden -
他们发挥纯真，纯洁的想法 当然也是种罪恶
they play on the idea of innocence, purity, and, of course sin.
在这里，镜子是无处不在的
There are mirrors absolutely everywhere in here.
它就像个马戏团的镜子大厅
It's like a hall of mirrors from a circus.
或许真的有点下流，变态
Or maybe something a bit seedier, a bit kinkier,
更有点不吉利
a little bit more sinister.
1899年, 马克西姆餐厅代表了
In 1899, Maxim's typified
许多新艺术风格被创建起来
much of the Art Nouveau that was being created.
时尚和奢侈
Fashionable and extravagant,
它们代表了19世纪末的颓废和过度
it had come to represent fin-de-siecle decadence and excess.
但是历史也有另一面
But there is another side to this story.
如果你认为新艺术风格
If you think that Art Nouveau
都是精致的花瓶和卷曲的家具
is all exquisite vases and curly furniture,
那你就大错特错了
well, you couldn't be more wrong.
在1900年世博会，新艺术风格的设计师中
Amongst the Art Nouveau designers at the 1900 World Fair,
至少有一位设计师的新艺术风格有更神圣的使命
at least one felt that the new style had a more serious mission.
他的展区出现了一个工作炉
His stand featured a working furnace,
在它周围有玻璃花瓶
and surrounding it, a display of glass vases.
他们都致力于自己的事业
They were all dedicated to a cause
这暴露出了法国社会的历史裂缝
which exposed a seismic rift in French society.
这个展示品背后的设计师是埃米尔·加勒
The designer behind this display was Emile Galle.
埃米尔·加勒是新艺术运动中 身心失调的天才设计师
Emile Galle was the troubled genius of Art Nouveau,
他是一位有创意，创新的企业家
he was creative, an innovator, an entrepreneur.
他也是一个充满激情的信徒， 维护社会正义的老兵
He was also a passionate believer and campaigner for social justice.
最终，让他付出沉重的代价
That, in the end, would cost him dearly.
埃米尔·加勒是19世纪后期，
Emile Galle is one of the most fascinating characters to emerge
法国艺术历史中，一位非常有意思的人
in the story of the French arts in the latter part of the 19th century.
他绝对是他那个时代 在新艺术运动中
He was absolutely a man of his time, and in that respect,
一位历史性的关键人物
is a key figure in the story of Art Nouveau.
菲利普，加勒是个怎样的人？
Philippe, what sort of a man was Galle?
一位非常复杂的人物
Very complex personality,
诗人，也可以说是， 哲学家，梦想家
a poet, one might say, a philosopher, a dreamer,
尤其是，他发现了玻璃中的媒介
who found his medium, particularly in glass.
他有非常不同别人的兴趣
A man with very diverse interests,
他是一位伟大的植物学家 他有一个强烈的政治议程
he was a great botanist, he had a strong political agenda,
他是一位有巨大社会良知的自由主义者
he was a liberal with a tremendous social conscience.
埃米尔·加勒也一位实业家
Emile Galle was also an industrialist,
他继承了家族企业
who built from an inherited family business
在玻璃，家具，陶瓷厂领域
a very substantial and successful
取得了巨大的成功
glass, furniture and ceramics factory.
跟着工匠老师傅 加勒创造了惊人的原型
With his master craftsmen, Galle created stunning prototypes,
在车间地板上，设计的产品被大规模生产
while on the workshop floor, designs were mass produced
横跨了法国市场
for a hungry market across France.
艺术和产业齐头并进
Art and industry went hand in hand.
于是他尝试发展不同的技术
So he was experimenting to develop different techniques,
玻璃着色和纹理
colouring and texturing the glass,
在玻璃质量上再创建效果
creating effects within the mass of the glass,
颜色分成，用酸或雕刻来削减
layering colours and cutting back with acid
以达到浮雕或其它效果
or engraving to achieve cameo and other effects.
最终,他真的使玻璃碎片的技术复杂性
He ended up really being capable of making pieces of glass
这是从未取得过的技术
of a technical complexity that had never been achieved before.
价目和题词的雕刻
Engraved with quotations and dedications,
他的作品展览出去超出了纯粹的装饰
his exhibition pieces go way beyond the purely decorative.
它们神奇之处也有制造玻璃的精湛技巧
The magic of them is that as well as being virtuosities of glassmaking,
充满神奇诗性的就是
they are always imbued with this magical poetic quality
他的签名
which is his signature.
他将唤起自然和生命的循环
He would evoke nature, he would evoke the cycle of life.
他会把你画在一块玻璃上
He would draw you into a piece of glass
不知何故，你将会迷失自我
and somehow you could become lost in it.
假如你在寻找星星 你将会变得如醉如痴
And you would be as enthralled as if you were looking up at the stars.
在他的作品里，你会失去比例感
You sort of lose a sense of scale within his pieces.
他是一个真正的艺术家
He was truly an artist.
加勒的自然观是一个复杂的 也是非常真实的
Galle's view of nature was a complex but also a very honest one.
他会欣赏蓝色天空，看看蜻蜓
Yes, he could do blue skies and dragonflies,
但他也在乎排名，衰减，死亡
but he also appreciated what was rank, decaying, dying.
在一个阴云密布秋天的下午 他跟盛夏时一样
He'd have been just as happy here on an overcast autumn afternoon
一样会很开心
as he would have been at the height of summer.
跟波德莱尔一样，加勒试图 找到一个新的语言
Like Baudelaire, Galle was trying to find a new language
可以表达真正的现代生活和死亡
that could express the realities of modern life and death.
在加勒家乡，我来到了南锡矿业学院博物馆 （1919年成立，在1950年代，学院发明了“全科工程师”概念）
I've come to the Ecole de Nancy museum in Galle's home town.
在19世纪末
At the end of the 19th century,
南锡学院成了新艺术设计的典范房
Nancy became a power house of Art Nouveau design.
1901年，加勒成立了本地设计师协会
In 1901, Galle formed an association of local designers.
他们包括家具设计师路易雷勒
They included the furniture designer Louis Majorelle
玻璃设计师 安东尼和奥古斯特
and glass designers Antonin and Auguste Daum.
今天，在自己领域，他们大名鼎鼎
Today they're big names in their own right,
但加勒是真正的富有远见的
but Galle was the true visionary.
现在，这是你真正的加勒麦科伊
Now, this is your real Galle McCoy.
他的这个灯，每个人都爱它
This is the stuff that everybody loved, his lamps.
显然为了响应他，每朵花都在这里盛开
Obviously echoing the flowers in the field, the bloom up here,
但有趣的是，他试图证明 她真正的本质
but what's very interesting about it is he was trying to show nature
不是春天里的花，也不是赏金
as she really was, not just spring, not just bounty,
在秋天，所有都变得干燥或死亡
but also autumn when everything dies and dries up.
下面的这些罂粟花蕾将会凋零
So beneath these buds of poppies about to burst,
在植物的底部，这些卷须，植物枯萎的部分
at the bottom of the plant, these tendrils, these withered pieces
叶子会粘附着它，但不会留很长时间
of the plant, the leaves clinging to it, won't be here much longer,
很快就被风吹走了
soon to be blown away.
在1900年世博会上，加勒展出的一个花瓶
One of the vases that Galle exhibited at the 1900 World Fair
就在这个博物馆里
is here at the museum.
它就是Les Hommes Noirs--黑暗男人
It is called Les Hommes Noirs, The Dark Men.
这件艺术品是与艺术家维克多一起合作的
A collaboration with the artist Victor Prouve,
它讲述了一段不公正的历史故事 在世纪之交时
it tells a story of injustice that threatened to destabilise
威胁动摇了
the government and the country's fragile peace
国家和政府的和平
at the turn of the century.
这个花瓶是献给叫德雷福斯的人
This vase was dedicated to one man, Alfred Dreyfus.
1895年，德雷福斯是一个犹太军官
In 1895, Dreyfus, a Jewish army officer,
被人伪造文件被叛无期徒刑
was sentenced to life imprisonment for treason on the basis
原因是叛国罪
of documents that had been faked.
在羞辱的仪式上，他的徽章被撕毁
In a humiliating ritual, his badges of rank were torn from him
他的剑被折断
and his sword was broken.
德雷福斯尖叫着“我是无辜的”
Dreyfus, we know that he screamed, "I am innocent,"
声音那么大，但是你知道没人听他的
but it was so loud nobody could hear him, you know.
这个身高不高的男人独自对抗
So this small man was just standing alone against
所有反犹太主义人 你知道，“死神德莱弗斯”
all the anti-Semitic screams, you know, "Death to Dreyfus,"
“间谍去死，叛徒去死，犹太人去死”
"Death to the spy, death to the traitor, death to the Jew."
这真是一个非常非常暴力时刻 他不得不要经历...
It was really a very, very violent moment he had to go through.
反犹太主义几十年来在巴黎憋着
The anti-Semitism that had been simmering for decades in Paris
现在爆发了
now exploded.
法国媒体每天报道反犹的仇恨
The daily anti-Semitic paper La France Juive stoked the hatred.
整个德雷福斯事件上蒙上了很久的阴影 是在法国吗？
This whole Dreyfus affair cast a very long shadow here in France, didn't it?
Yes, it did.
他们觉得法国将受到威胁
The concern was the Dreyfus affair came to such a point
that they thought France would be threatened,
共和，民主，共和国...
the republic, the democracy, or the republic...
真的吗？它影响到了整个政府？
Really? It could bring down the whole government?
没错，它带来了愤怒和激情的高潮
Exactly. It came to such a climax of anger and passion.
对德雷福斯案件，巴黎街道变得非常有活力
The streets in Paris became very animated with the Dreyfus case.
So it really divided everybody.
It split the whole country.
一些艺术家有自己立场
Some artists took a stand.
著名小说家左拉写了公开信
The novelist Emile Zola famously attacked the government
强烈控诉了政府
with his open letter, J'Accuse.
黑暗男人是对加勒的玻璃的谴责
Les Hommes Noirs was Galle's J'Accuse in glass.
黑暗男人象征法国的虚伪和不公正
The dark men symbolise French hypocrisy and injustice.
对此事件我想问下，“你来自哪里”
The words on the case ask, "From where do you come?"
"我们从地底下来的"
"We come from beneath the earth."
1900年世博会后，加勒回到了南锡
When Galle returned to Nancy after the 1900 World Fair,
他付出了高昂的代价为德雷福斯辩护
he paid a high price for his defence of Dreyfus.
而且他还被邻居和朋友排斥
He was ostracised by his neighbours and friends,
他的生意也受到影响
and his business suffered.
他捍卫了一个清白的人 意味着他反对军队，反对教会
He was defending an innocent against the army, against the church
和反对正义
and against the justice.
自从他参与德雷福斯事件后
Since he was involved in this Dreyfus affair,
他已经失去了很多客户，业务也不好
he had lost a lot of customers, the business was not working very well,
对于他妻子和女儿，还有工厂的未来
so maybe he was a bit upset about the future for his wife
他可能会不高兴
and his daughters, and the future of the factory.
因为他是唯一一个工厂设计师
As he was the only one who was designing for his factory,
接下来发生什么了？
what would happen next?
加勒变成什么样子了？
What would become of Galle?
你是不是觉得在他今后生活中 加勒失去了自我
Do you think, later in his life, Galle regretted the position
完全接管德雷福斯事件？
he took over the whole Dreyfus affair?
这很难说，但他始终深入参与
It's hard to tell, but he was so deeply always involved
到这个他想捍卫的事件中
in those cases that he was defending.
所以我想他会后悔的 就商业方面来讲
So I think he regretted it only on the commercial side
在1900年大展览会后
because of the lack of orders, of commands,
他会缺乏订单
that came after the Great Exhibition in 1900.
但是当他被作家维克多雨果所吸引时
But when he was quoting authors like Victor Hugo,
他说，“艺术是一件捍卫你想法武器”
he said, "Art is like a weapon to defend your ideas."
世博会结束不久，加勒发现
Soon after the World Fair, Galle found out
他有另一场仗要打
that he had another battle to fight.
加勒知道他快不行了
Galle was about to die, he knew he was dying,
所以他把这个忧郁症带来的很多悲伤
so he put a lot of this sadness,
都放在他的创造中
this melancholia, in all his creations.
这是他去世之前，他在工厂制作的
This is the very last piece of furniture that he produced
最后一个家具，而且对人们
in his factory before he died, and it made really a very strong effect
on the people here.
What do you think he's trying to say in this?
这是黎明和夜间 你可以看看这个床
It's dawn and it's night-time, the bed, but you could look at it
尤其关于是一个垂死工作的人
particularly as the work of a dying man,
生存和死亡的事实
as about life and death, in fact.
Yes, that's it, exactly.
Galle used the symbols of the butterflies
他们代表了中央蛋，他们代表
and they represent, with the central egg, they represent birth,
诞生的开始，他们充满了希望
the beginning, and they are full of hopes.
但随着一天的结束 他们都死了
But then at the end of the day, they are dead.
在你后面，你可以看到你头顶上方
And on your back, you can see just above your head,
这个夜晚的蝴蝶，就是天蛾
this night butterfly, the sphinx,
慢慢地落在你上面，它意味着死亡
which is slowly falling above you, and it means death.
他已经死了，但是他的翅膀很靠近你的头
He is dying and his wings are closing on your head.
这会让你想到你的生活是怎样的
It has to make you think of what you make of your life, I think.
可悲的是，加勒没有活到1906年 德雷福斯被赦免的那刻
Tragically, Galle didn't live to see Dreyfus exonerated in 1906.
他2年前就死了 但是在他生命的最后岁月
He died two years earlier, but in the last years of his life
他创造了他最强大的动人作品
he'd created some of his most powerful and moving pieces.
在法国生活中，加勒暴露了他的一个缺点
Galle had exposed a fault line in French life
在世纪之交时
at the turn of the century,
有很多人都是从那里来的
but there was a lot more where that came from.
随着人口暴涨，犯罪，拥挤，贫穷 也随之而来
With the population explosion came crime, overcrowding, poverty.
巴黎的街头变得很不安
There was disquiet on the streets of Paris,
城市需要一个新的解决方案
and the city needed to find new solutions.
对于一个年轻的建筑师来说 让自己变得有点名气
For a young architect who was out to make a bit of a name for himself,
稍微有点轰动 尝试完全不同的时机已经成熟
a bit of a splash, the time was ripe for trying something utterly different.
赫克托是个很有才华，自我意识比较大的 年轻的建筑师
Hector Guimard was a young architect with an ego as big as his talent.
在他20多岁时，重大的工程就来到了他身边
Important projects came his way when he was still in his 20s,
在1896年，他还不到30岁时 他设计的建筑物
and in 1896, when Guimard was not yet 30, he designed the building
大胆的尝试，风格和雄心 巩固了他的名誉
that would cement his reputation for bravura, style and ambition.
他的使命不仅仅是创造一种完全不同的
His mission was to create not just a radically different
这类建筑物, 而且还要一个新形式 群体生活的模板
sort of building, but a template for a new form of communal living.
塞巴斯蒂安是位建筑师
Sebastien Cord is an architect himself
他住在赫克托最著名的设计 Castel Beranger大楼里
and a resident of Castel Beranger, Guimard's most celebrated building.
想看到真正的赫克托设计魅力 你必须进到
To see the real Guimard magic you have to get inside the curly gates
社区庭院内的大门里
to the communal courtyard within.
看到庭院了？ 是的，太令人惊叹了
So you see the courtyard? Stunning, yeah.
建造它时，赫克托那时真的很年轻
Guimard was really young when he built this.
安全码？是的
Security code? Yeah.
你在这里住多久了？
How long have you lived here?
五年左右
About five years.
太奇妙了,自你住这里就开始做建筑生意了
Must be fantastic, since you're in the business of architecture,
快看那里
to live here. Look at that!
从这里可以看到建筑是不对称的
From here you can see the building is asymmetrical,
完全与巴黎对称风格的古典主义相反
a crime against architecture in classically proportioned Paris.
让你看起来不厌倦
Your eye doesn't get bored of it
因为它有不同的轮廓
because there are different contours to it.
赫克托这个工作很有意思
That's interesting in the work of Guimard.
这是建筑和艺术的曲线美
It's architecture and art with curving lines.
那里的玻璃也很美，不是吗？
And the glass up there is beautiful, isn't it?
那些都是最初的玻璃?
Is that all original?
Yes.
'Guimard said the logic of nature is impeccable,
在Beranger大楼，他的视觉语言是大海
'and at Beranger, his visual language is the sea.
“每一层楼重复的窗户染成妖娆的波浪”
'The windows repeated on every floor are stained into voluptuous waves.'
我爱这种海绵状的石头
I love these kind of sponge-like bits of stone,
他们看起来像海绵，不是吗？ 同意吗？
they look like sea sponges, don't they? Is that the idea?
在法国我们称它为贻贝
We call it mouliere in French.
传统主义者厌恶红砖
'Red brick, anathema to traditionalists,
完全反对自然石和工程石
'butts up against whole stones and engineered stone too.'
这是我在巴黎看到的不一样建筑
Very different to the other buildings I've been seeing in Paris,
是奥斯曼建筑的一种吗？
the kind of Haussmann buildings, isn't it?
Yes.
'It's Guimard's signature ironwork that gives the building
建筑设计带来的智慧
'its Art Nouveau character and wit.'
It's incredible.
'Why the long face?
这些海马把它们的鼻子 对着墙是有原因的
'These sea horses press their noses to the walls for good reason.'
它是个构造函数
It has a structural function also.
不是吗？它一直对着墙 是的，可以这么理解
Does it? It's holding the wall up. Yes. That's good to know.
我是不是该相信另一件不寻常的事
I believe another unusual thing is that all the apartments
所有的公寓大小都是大致相同的？
are roughly the same size?
没错，对富人来讲这不是大公寓
It wasn't big apartments for the rich. Exactly.
每个社会层次的人有相同的楼层
Every level have the same height.
底楼住不富有的人
You don't have the rich at the first level
穷人也可以住在顶层
and the poor people at the top.
真的打破了传统，赫克托敢创建
'Really breaking with tradition, Guimard dared to create
忽略了巴黎社会阶层的公寓楼
'an apartment block that ignored the social hierarchy of Paris.
起初，邻居们称它为Castel Deranger（混世城堡）
'At first, the neighbours called this Castel Deranger,
当你踏入大楼的大厅 你就会明白为什么会这样
'and when you step in to the building's vestibule, you can kind of see why.'
真是难以置信 这真的像一个山洞，是不是？
That's incredible. It's really like a cave, isn't it?
是的，它像一个洞穴
Yes, it's designed like a grotto.
这是赫克托的一个建筑杰作
It's a masterpiece of the building made by Guimard.
这是个卓越的设计思路
Just the gateway is remarkable.
非常奇妙，真的很原始
It's marvellous. Really original, in fact.
它像一架竖琴
It's like a harp.
竖琴？
A harp?
这些是弦乐器 你可以随便弹奏它们
These are the strings and you can kind of pluck them.
这相当漂亮，是不是？
That's rather beautiful, isn't it?
也许不是我做的这样 但它可能是
Maybe not the way I'm doing it, but it could be.
所有的几何结构被淹没在铁的曲线
'All the geometry of the structure is submerged in iron curves
和起伏的石膏中 仿佛建筑本身是水做的
'and undulating plaster, as if the building itself were made of water.'
因此，这些着看有点像树木，是吗？
So these are meant to look a bit like trees, are they?
是的，就像从石窟出来的树木
Yeah, it's like trees going from the grotto.
就像个花园，但也有水...
It's like a piece of a garden but also with water...
像海底花园
Like an undersea garden.
这很奇怪
It's quite strange.
是的，它像海王星花园，是的
Yes, it's like Neptune's garden. Yes.
多年来，这个充满美感且古怪奇妙的入口
'For many years, the full beauty of this weirdly wonderful entrance
隐藏在无数光泽油漆的外衣下
'was hidden under countless coats of gloss paint.
塞巴斯蒂安刚刚完成了 回到混世城堡了解赫克托设计它的目的
'Sebastian's just completed the painstaking task of returning
这项艰项苦的任务
'Castel Beranger to how Guimard intended it to be.'
这真的很棒，是吗？ 是的
That's great, isn't it? Yes.
这是个进入大楼很愉快的方式
It's a pleasant way to enter in the building.
没错
It is.
Pardon, monsieur.
'As the space where residents would meet and greet each other,
是赫克托城市生活总规划的核心地区
'it's the heart of Guimard's masterplan for convivial urban living.'
她带了她的法国面包
Here she is with her French bread.
这是我们应该做的
That's what we should have done.
我没吻你，也许以后会的
I didn't kiss you. Maybe later!
让我们看看事情后来的发展
Let's see how things go. After!
好的，你先请
OK, after you.
赫克托一个人搬到这里享受名人的
'Guimard moved in here himself, enjoying his bachelor lifestyle
单身汉生活
'and his celebrity.
不知疲倦的自我封闭
'A tireless self-publicist,
他在家寄出自己水汪汪的艺术风格的明信片
'he sent out postcards of himself at home with his watery Art Nouveau.'
由于他设计的混世城堡，他获得了奖励 巴黎成了他的牡蛎
With an award under his belt for Beranger, Paris was his oyster.
当巴黎准备1900年世博会时
As the city was preparing for the 1900 World Fair,
他进入世博委员会，这使他流芳百世
he landed the commission that would make him immortal.
巴黎陷入了交通堵塞
The city was in gridlock.
地铁，一个适合新世纪的地下铁路
The Metro, a new railway fit for a new century was being built -
正在被建造
under the ground.
赫克托被邀请设计地铁入口
And Guimard was asked to design the Metro entrances
来增添最后的装饰，让这个奇妙的
to add a final decorative flourish to this fantastic new-fangled way
新一届的举办方式蓬勃发展
of getting about.
他进委员会是个有争议的选择
He was a controversial choice,
但在那时，巴黎人对他 华丽的新艺术风格的很钟爱
but in time, Parisians warmed to his flamboyant version of Art Nouveau.
这是多芬纳出入口，赫克托设计的 保存最好的地铁站
This is Port Dauphine, Guimard's finest surviving Metro station.
它通向布洛涅森林
It's en route to the Bois de Boulogne,
树林在巴黎郊外，这似乎很合适
the woods on the outskirts of Paris, and that seems rather appropriate,
因为新兴站台就像铁树离开了灌木丛
because emerging from the station is like leaving a thicket of iron trees.
赫克托把自然和艺术带入了 现代城市的中心地带
Guimard brought nature and art into the very heart of the modern city.
萨尔瓦多·达利描述他的设计
Salvador Dali described his designs as
这些神圣的优雅的地铁入口
"those divine entrances to the Metro by grace of which one can descend
人可以从潜意识里进入到地区
"into the region of the subconscious."
赫克托设计的地铁站，实际上是 由脆性的金属密集起来的
Guimard's station, which is actually metallic and dense and brittle,
在这些木材的布置下 它的形状变成一个巨大的蛾
in this wooded setting, shape-shifts into a giant moth or bug
或是有薄弱翅膀的小虫 它有许多细长的四肢
with its gossamer wings, its many, spindly limbs
和这些探测天线
and those questing, probing antennae.
他选择了铸铁来创建 下垂和上升的分支
He chose cast iron to create drooping stalks and rising branches.
还有玻璃，是一个脆弱的材料 对一个繁忙城市结构来说
And glass, a vulnerable material for a busy urban structure,
似乎搭着铁骨架
seems to be draped over the iron skeleton.
赫克托设计的141车站出入口
Guimard designed 141 station entrances,
每一个在四个基本模版上都有变化
each on a variation of four basic templates,
以及地铁字母“M”都有自由的解释
as well as a loose interpretation of the letter "M" for Metro.
地铁出入口，又重新定义了城市
The Metro entrances, redefining the city,
似乎是未来的门户
seemed like the portals to the future.
但是当1900年世博会都结束了 20世纪刺眼的光线来临了
But when the 1900 exhibition was all packed up, the harsh light of the 20th century started to dawn.
这个餐厅是尤金专为1902年在南锡
This dining room was designed for an apartment in Nancy in 1902
加勒的联营公司而设计的
by Eugene Vallin, an associate of Emile Galle.
我得出一个理论，这不是为男人设计的
I've got a theory that this wasn't made by men.
我认为这是一个超进化蜜蜂物种工作
I think it's the work of a species of hyper-evolved bee.
我的意思是你这曲线无处不在
I mean, look at the curves everywhere.
就像他们看着我们做的金属和直线
It's as though they looked at what we did with metal and straight lines
并被它拒绝了，但一切都是由蜂王浆来的
and rejected it and everything was masticated out of royal jelly.
你有点古怪，迷幻
Bit freaky for you? Bit acid trippy?
想象一下，这是一次令人愉快饭局
Well, consider, it would be lovely to come here to dinner once,
也许一个星期
maybe for a week.
但是每一天呢？ 你会开始觉得像卡夫卡（奥地利小说家）
But every day? You would start to feel like Kafka,
这家餐厅创建后不久，他创作了《变形记》
who, shortly after this was created, would pen Metamorphoses.
但问题是它太花，有太多了装饰
And that was the problem - it was too curly, too decorative,
太黑暗，太多了！
too dark, too much.
当来到中产阶级的餐厅时
When it arrived in the dining rooms of the middle classes,
波西米亚精英们失去了他们的胃口
the Bohemian elite lost their taste for it.
像所有的时尚，艺术风格 成为自身成功的受害者
Like all fashions, Art Nouveau became a victim of its own success.
像一个善变的情人，城市曾经接受的风格
Like a fickle lover, the city that had once embraced the style
在1920年代开始转变
turned against it in the 1920s.
精美的乔治·富凯珠宝店被拆除
The wonderful Fouquet jewellery shop was dismantled,
就在23年前，巴黎Carnivalet博物馆
and was reconstructed in the Musee Carnivalet in Paris
开始重建
just 23 years ago.
甚至标志性的地铁出入口都 没有逃脱扑杀
Even the iconic Metro entrances didn't escape the cull.
多芬纳出入口是幸存的三分之一玻璃出入口
Port Dauphine is one of just three glass entrances that have survived.
可悲的是，当新艺术风格戏剧性的脱离时尚
Sadly, when Art Nouveau dramatically fell out of fashion,
所有其它相关的东西也被无情的扼杀
all the others were ruthlessly hacked down.
赫克托设计的原型79也丢失了
79 original Guimard designs have been lost,
新艺术运动直到20世纪
and Art Nouveau was forgotten until the last decades
过去了几十年才被遗忘
of the 20th century.
今天，地铁和巴黎再次齐头并进
Today the Metro and Paris go hand in hand again
艺术风格的文物成了城市珍品
and the city treasures its Art Nouveau heritage.
旧火已被重新点燃
The old love affair has been rekindled.
下期节目，新艺术风格将到英国 追溯它的根源和隐藏的宝石
Next time, the roots and hidden gems of Art Nouveau in British cities,
在反对丑闻和沮丧的背景下
set against a backdrop of scandal and depression,
艺术家和设计师在上前线
when artists and designers were on the front line
对性和社会的进行变革
of sexual and social change.
=================== =================== after army no.10 ★★★ 记录片之家倾情奉献http://www.jlpzj.net/ 本字幕仅供学习交流，严禁用于商业用途 翻译/时间轴：吉吉 ★★★
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd